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> South Fin
Male Menopause
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.2 from 25
votes
Routes in South Fin
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Chicken Co-op T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cloud Nine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cornholer's Incest S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Coroner's Inquest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lion's Line S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Male Menopause T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Montse, Donde Esta,'91 S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Old Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rooting for the Lions S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tongue Lashing T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Turkey Trot S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,545 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | eMurdock on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Your Star Rating:
Description
The start of Male Menopause is located 20 feet or so to the left of Old Man. Start up a thin seam/crack. Move right through steeper rock. Move left onto ledges and climb the hand crack in the headwall. If the handcrack were longer this route would be classic. Provacative climbing for the grade with adequate, although not always abundant, gear.
az
Denver, CO
Watch out for getting your rope caught in the thin flake after you pull the roof move. You may have to put a nut in here just to keep the rope out from behind the flake!
Also, don't mess up in the first 20 feet or so. They aren't hard moves, but if you blow it, decking is definitely a possibility.
That having been said, i do believe this route is bolted entirely appropriately (i.e. there are no bolts.) Jun 14, 2004
Denver, CO
Personally, I always find the handcrack section near the top to be the hardest. But then, I'm hardly the world's greatest crack climber.
Watch out for getting your rope caught in the thin flake after you pull the roof move. You may have to put a nut in here just to keep the rope out from behind the flake!
Also, don't mess up in the first 20 feet or so. They aren't hard moves, but if you blow it, decking is definitely a possibility.
That having been said, I do believe this route is bolted entirely appropriately (i.e. there are no bolts.) Jun 14, 2004
Casa do Cacete
But at least somebody was kind enough to fix a #1 Camalot just after the hard stuff at the bottom. (Edit: has been cleaned) May 29, 2008
Tucson, AZ
EDIT 9/27/15
i did this route again today. the bottom felt like 5.9 and was questionably protected by the smallest non-aid nut i have (BD #3). also, pulling through the blocky stuff to the right of the roof will put you well above your gear. be careful. Jul 6, 2008
Tucson