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St. Valentines Day Massacre

5.8-, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 152 votes
FA: Kurt Schroeder, Linda Lynch
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Prison Camp (Go… > Mr. Meanor Wall

Description

This is currently the rightmost route on the same wall as Mr Meanor. Start right of a large flat boulder and a few feet right of the first bolt. Move up to clip the first bolt, then follow an obvious white streak/ridge. Go straight up after clipping the fourth bolt. Clip the fifth and last bolt and scramble up slightly right 15-20 feet to the chains.

Protection

5 bolts and chain anchor. Small cams or stoppers can be used between bolts or above fifth bolt if desired.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2016.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

St Valentines Day Massacre Topo
[Hide Photo] St Valentines Day Massacre Topo
theres a rodent of some type that eats at the yucca right around the belay for this route, listen and you can hear it chewing.
[Hide Photo] theres a rodent of some type that eats at the yucca right around the belay for this route, listen and you can hear it chewing.
can sub gear for bolts
[Hide Photo] can sub gear for bolts
tricky start easy after that
[Hide Photo] tricky start easy after that
super fun climb
[Hide Photo] super fun climb
if the first 15 feet of this route went on for 100, it would be four stars...wishful thinking.
[Hide Photo] if the first 15 feet of this route went on for 100, it would be four stars...wishful thinking.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Vincent Greene
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] The first 35 feet of this is better than any of the other moderates in this area. Lots of nice moves. I only wish it would go on longer. Feb 15, 2004
Vincent Greene
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] If you are in the mood for a harder start, you can traverse left up the white streak rather than starting right of the first bolt - that bumps the rating about half a grade. Mar 16, 2004
Vincent Greene
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] The first two bolts have been removed by Ben Burnham by request. The moves can be covered by small stoppers or very small cams. Jan 31, 2005
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] FWIW, I'm the one who mentioned to Ben that I thought some of the bolts on this route were unnecessary.

Thanks, Ben, for being willing to go back and take another look at the route! Jan 31, 2005
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Why is Ben being consulted regarding the necessity of bolts on a route that he didn't put up? Doesn't sound kosher to me... Apr 30, 2006
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] I was at this wall in June, 2006 and all the bolts were there. Good climb. Jun 5, 2006
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] fun climb, enjoy the dirt when it slabs out at the top. Oct 25, 2007
[Hide Comment] Ben, Lynda and I put this up in stages, but together. Ben really liked this route and I agree with Vince: if only it would go on.............. Originally it did start right, never liked that. The direct start Ben finally bought into. kas Nov 30, 2008
Micah C
  5.8
[Hide Comment] As of today, the entire climb is bolted pretty well. It may be hard to spot all the bolts from the ground, but it felt fine to me with no gear. Dec 1, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.7
[Hide Comment] 5 bolts no gear supplement needed. If you're ticking the formation why not? Besides the left leaning crack makes for an interesting feature to follow.

Nice. Apr 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] I led this climb today, and it had all the bolts. Very fun climb, especially in the novice level. Oct 11, 2009
Bigbad WOLF Anderson
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] if this route was taller and didnt taper out to a scramble it would be majestic , fun starting moves and holds here Oct 14, 2009
[Hide Comment] which route is one to the left of St. Valentine's day massacre? Jan 18, 2010
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] No extra gear needed. Easier than it looks and FUN!!! Oct 29, 2011
Kristina Bergdahl-Martel
Tucson, AZ
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Loved this climb! Great to follow the white streak. The route is easier than it looks from the ground as the bottom bolts have thin but very nicely textured holds. Cannot see the fifth bolt until you are close to it. The climbing above the last bolt is run-out but easy climbing gets one to the chains B4 you know it! Oct 29, 2011
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
 
[Hide Comment] Added Mussy hooks to anchors Jan 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2016. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 9, 2018
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] this should be listed as a sport route. Jan 30, 2021