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Routes in The Druid

Admiral Throckmorton S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bron- yr-aur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Corporal Punishment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crap Weasel S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Druid Roof 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Grips of Wrath, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Lightning S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack the Slipper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lights Out S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lord Fowelsbain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Multi roof ???? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Of Mice and Men T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Paganizer, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rupley's Believe It Or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thingfish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, Mike Strassman
Page Views: 251 total, 1/month
Shared By: Scott Drawz on Dec 9, 2001
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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A short fun sport route on the righthand side of the druid.

Thin face moves get you to a fun roof (crux) then easy face to the chains.

See "Squeezing the Lemmon II" for a topo and more info.


There is a runout about halfway up on easy ground. If you fall here it might be possible to deck...Be careful


Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
So there are two lines over the roof. One left and one right. This one is right. It is a number grade easier than the one to the left according to MP. Climb them both and tell me these numbers have anything to do with reality. Sep 5, 2016
Eric Sophiea
Eric Sophiea  
Did this a year ago-ish. I have a suspicion, based on the crumbly rock at the roof/crux that the holds are slowly getting smaller, which would account for the difference in grade rating from SQLII and what people are feeling it is now. My climbing partner that day is short (5'3" ish), was leading 5.8-, and had zero problems on In Lightning (TR) but had to basically aid the roof of AT. It seemed solid 5.9 for that one move. The rest of the climb was mediocre at best. Oct 29, 2013
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
That crux bolt takes one hell of a beating. Aug 24, 2012
Casa do Cacete
  5.9+ PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9+ PG13
The roof moves are not even close to 5.8. If you're strong enough to pull them, you'd have to have an epileptic fit to fall on the 5.5 runout below, but it's a groundfall so merits attention.

Ditto all the above for the route to the left, "Corporal Punishment". Aug 24, 2012
Suze Slezinger
Tucson AZ
Suze Slezinger   Tucson AZ
Fun route but the roof move I think deserves a 5.9 especially if your on the shorter side. I am 5'6'' and I had a little trouble getting to the good holds while pulling up over my foot. Oct 7, 2010
I was out climbing this today and my friend and I got sketched out by the roof move on lead so I traversed over a little bit only to find a bolt a little ways up to the right of the roof. The bolt is placed almost on horizontal part of the rock. I clipped it and went on up easy terrain to set up a top rope for everyone else. Is that why that bold exist? Also if you do this extend the hell out of the bolts. Rope drag is horrendous. Aug 23, 2009
missoula, mt
joshf   missoula, mt
if the run out over the slab is to much, there is a very good looking chicken head you can sling several feet below the roof bolt. This route is a one move wonder over the roof, which seems especially difficult after the 5.5/6 climbing leading up to it. Nov 8, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
That roof move is solid 5.9, no doubt to me. Beware 5.8 leaders! The runout is definitely over easy ground with a nice hold to clip from, but beware! It is very similar to a 5.9 is Austin Greenbelt on Seismic wall called "Overeasy", except that Overeasy has some very interesting moves after its roof. Fun route though. mostly easy for a 'Mt Lemmon 5.8' except for the 5.9 roof. Aug 27, 2006
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
The roof on this one (and CP next door) is interesting. Not as interesting as "Lights Out", but interesting nonetheless. If you look in STL II you'll notice that this route actually has three pitches, not one as indicated in the description. P2 and P3 are not particularly difficult, but P3 is probably R. P2 is mixed and P3 is trad. The only drilled stations are on P1 so this is an op to practice building gear anchors. Jun 11, 2006
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
I have to agree with Wes. If In Lightning is a 5.8 (which I think it is) then this is a definite 5.9. I'll put 5.8+ in case I'm just a wuss. I did find it easier than the left side of the roof (Corporal Punishment). Both are fun! May 9, 2006
Wes Turner
Wes Turner   az
I am putting 5.8 becasue that is the consensus...HOWEVER, I swear that crux is solid 5.9 for sure! Thats just me though....and the move is HARDER than anymove on jack the slipper which is a if 5.8 is your upper limit this is gonna be a tough one. The good thing is that there is a bolt right at the crux saving your butt from going anywhere.. so you got that goin for ya...I'm about 5'9"-5"10" so every inch that your are taller than this could very possibly make it easier. good climb Jul 9, 2004