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Susey's Groovy

5.8+, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.2 from 36 votes
FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain (2000)
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (S… > Mount Lemmon (C… > 1 - Lower Highway > Hairpin Turn Area > Left Hand Wall

Description

well, the book says near this area is the route called "the party's over." i don't want to mix up this route with that one, but with the books' vague description i can guess this is an unnamed route. the route is in an obvious corner of lefthand wall west of "unemployment line" and features an open book stemming fest up top. start with 30 feet of 5.6 where gear can be placed (careful of loose rock). then the fun begins. enjoy some solid stemming through five bolts and end at chains.

Protection

6 quickdraws, set of stoppers

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

sweat climb great route
[Hide Photo] sweat climb great route
Here's the topo for this with Unemployment line and so on on the wall to the left.
[Hide Photo] Here's the topo for this with Unemployment line and so on on the wall to the left.
I think this is on this route. Hard to tell since it seems nameless. I thought it was Party's Over but apparently not.
[Hide Photo] I think this is on this route. Hard to tell since it seems nameless. I thought it was Party's Over but apparently not.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed the bottom direct (like the description states) with a #2 BD cam and a #1 Metolious tricam. It is a fun climb and this path gave it a good flow. Dec 31, 2008
[Hide Comment] I just scrambled to the first bolt. Sure it's a long runout but if you're leading 5.8+ you shouldn't have a problem. Jan 30, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Good addition to the crag. I would do it again. Feb 20, 2009
Derek Anderson
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] classic climb that takes pro before the bolt if your worried about running it out.. friend said it reminded him of some gunks climbs Nov 4, 2009
Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] This is a fun climb that breaks up a lot of the other climbing in the area, I would highly recommend it as something a little different to do while you're at hairpin. Dec 6, 2009
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. If you don't have gear and want to do the crack on the bottom, it's easy enough to clip the first 3 bolts on Freelance Tramps and still stay on easy ground. Has Mussy hooks at anchors. Dec 26, 2011
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] wild to see the names on this FA. A great dihedral, by the way.

I met Todd and Donette at a remote climbing area in Columbia last year. While I was there Many of the younger climbers would gather each night and buy Todd beers until he opened up and told a story or two. Todd and his wife are both great and had nothing but good things to say about Tucson. At this point they have both fully retired and now travel the world and develop climbing areas full time. Apr 20, 2017