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> 2 - Bear Canyon
> Green Slabs Area
> Green Slabs (S Face)
Here and Gone
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 49
votes
Routes in Green Slabs (South Face)
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Amateur Night T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Anatomy of Stone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Banana Cake Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Banana Pudding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blade Runner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cherry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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David and Goliath T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fathers Dazed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Funky Business ("Monkey Business" chimney variation) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Green Banana Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Here and Gone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Josh and Dave's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Jump for Joyce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Krack a Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Missing in Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Business T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mother Psycho's Little Darlins T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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My Left Foot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Stars T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Not KIA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rock Candy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Samson and Dalieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snakeskin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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So-o-o Swe-e-et T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tinaballina S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Toy Roof T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Unknown 5.8 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wits End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wrench Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yurt Monkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Steve Grossman, Mike Raymond, Rich Thompson 1976 |
| Page Views: | 3,353 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
I really enjoyed this climb. Challenging and sustained at a moderate level. There may be no 5.8 moves unless you do the direct start.
Here and Gone climbs the narrow face of the next buttress uphill from Yurt Monkey. Yurt Monkey is the buttress that is on the right side of an obvious smooth brown concave face.
If you don't mind bouldering up a bit on positive but small holds, do the direct start. You can get a Yellow Alien near the top of this short face to protect the last move to the edge. This start isn't that hard--probably only 5.8 max, but you could get hurt if you fell off. The alternative is to scramble up the gully on the left to the ledge.
Clip the bolt (only bolt on the climb) via a long reach, then step right onto the face. Climb up to a flared crack. There is good gear all the way up this crack which is climbed mostly via face holds and a few laybacks. It's quite steep at the top, but not too strenuous. There are some cool "plates" on the upper half of the face that make great holds and take gear.
Continue up the way runout low angle upper half of the buttress. There is one spot for a gold Camalot or thereabouts. The climbing is easy, but the rock is a bit suspect. At the flat summit there are 2 SMC bolts set back. You could belay here and then walk off the back, but instead, downclimb a bit right (easy) to the 2-bolt anchor of Samson and Dalieback. You can lower from here down the gully on the right with a 60m rope.
Here and Gone climbs the narrow face of the next buttress uphill from Yurt Monkey. Yurt Monkey is the buttress that is on the right side of an obvious smooth brown concave face.
If you don't mind bouldering up a bit on positive but small holds, do the direct start. You can get a Yellow Alien near the top of this short face to protect the last move to the edge. This start isn't that hard--probably only 5.8 max, but you could get hurt if you fell off. The alternative is to scramble up the gully on the left to the ledge.
Clip the bolt (only bolt on the climb) via a long reach, then step right onto the face. Climb up to a flared crack. There is good gear all the way up this crack which is climbed mostly via face holds and a few laybacks. It's quite steep at the top, but not too strenuous. There are some cool "plates" on the upper half of the face that make great holds and take gear.
Continue up the way runout low angle upper half of the buttress. There is one spot for a gold Camalot or thereabouts. The climbing is easy, but the rock is a bit suspect. At the flat summit there are 2 SMC bolts set back. You could belay here and then walk off the back, but instead, downclimb a bit right (easy) to the 2-bolt anchor of Samson and Dalieback. You can lower from here down the gully on the right with a 60m rope.
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