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Solitary

5.7, Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 108 votes
FA: Vincent Greene
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Prison Camp (Go… > Alcatraz Wall

Description

Starts at a vertical crease on Alcatraz wall between "Hoosgal" (arete) and large tree. Look for a belay anchor at ground level. If desired, you can place a medium cam in the crease before you reach the first bolt. Follow the bolts to the chains.

To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.

Protection

7 bolts, chains, belayer anchor at bottom

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lilly sends!
[Hide Photo] Lilly sends!
Mark leading "Solitary".  Stacy is taking photo girth-hitched to the chains of the neighboring route "Birdman".
[Hide Photo] Mark leading "Solitary". Stacy is taking photo girth-hitched to the chains of the neighboring route "Birdman".
topo for solitary
[Hide Photo] topo for solitary
Alex leading for us.
[Hide Photo] Alex leading for us.
Solitary on Alcatraz Wall.  MJ photo      "Firm rock, rich in good holds, up I go".  Hermann Buhl
[Hide Photo] Solitary on Alcatraz Wall. MJ photo "Firm rock, rich in good holds, up I go". Hermann Buhl
jeremy on lead
[Hide Photo] jeremy on lead
Chelsea Cook leading Solitary. (Shot from the base of Machine Gun.)
[Hide Photo] Chelsea Cook leading Solitary. (Shot from the base of Machine Gun.)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] We have added a bolt below the original first bolt. There are now eight bolots total and no need for any gear. Dec 21, 2003
Braxton Norwood
Billings Montana
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This climb has, literally, a bolt every body length for the duration of the route. I think it's a good lead for beginners, though. Mar 25, 2007
Cody M
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Appreciate the bolts - it's a great lead for beginners. Jan 31, 2011
Kristina Bergdahl-Martel
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] I skipped the 5th bolt. I am still pretty new to outdoor sport climbing and I think this is a great climb for someone in the same boat! Did a few of the routes off to the right and there are not nearly as many bolts (two for MachineGun)-however- the climbs are not nearly as high - 20 to 30ft less. Sep 26, 2011
[Hide Comment] As a beginner 5.7/5.8 climber in winter on Mt. Lemmon, I was advised to try Alcatraz wall from Eric of StLIII. (Thanks, Eric!) Great choice! This east wall gets lots of sun and a view of Tucson to boot. Fun pretty canyon approach with waterfalls too. Easy bolted climbs and a nice day out for a newbie. Nov 16, 2015