Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Alcatraz Wall

Birdman T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoosgal T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Machinegun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scarface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solitary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Vincent Greene
Page Views: 3,136 total, 18/month
Shared By: Vincent Greene on Nov 22, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


57 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Starts at a vertical crease on Alcatraz wall between "Hoosgal" (arete) and large tree. Look for a belay anchor at ground level. If desired, you can place a medium cam in the crease before you reach the first bolt. Follow the bolts to the chains.

To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.

Protection

7 bolts, chains, belayer anchor at bottom

Photos

Amy Larson  
 
As a beginner 5.7/5.8 climber in winter on Mt. Lemmon, I was advised to try Alcatraz wall from Eric of StLIII. (Thanks, Eric!) Great choice! This east wall gets lots of sun and a view of Tucson to boot. Fun pretty canyon approach with waterfalls too. Easy bolted climbs and a nice day out for a newbie. Nov 16, 2015
Kristina Bergdahl-Martel
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
Kristina Bergdahl-Martel   Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
I skipped the 5th bolt. I am still pretty new to outdoor sport climbing and I think this is a great climb for someone in the same boat! Did a few of the routes off to the right and there are not nearly as many bolts (two for MachineGun)-however- the climbs are not nearly as high - 20 to 30ft less. Sep 26, 2011
Cody M
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Cody M   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Appreciate the bolts - it's a great lead for beginners. Jan 31, 2011
Braxtron
...
  5.6
Braxtron   ...
  5.6
This climb has, literally, a bolt every body length for the duration of the route. I think it's a good lead for beginners, though. Mar 25, 2007
We have added a bolt below the original first bolt. There are now eight bolots total and no need for any gear. Dec 21, 2003