Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,324 total · 15/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Nov 1, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

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The West Gully route starts on the slabs at the west end of Elephant Head.

Fourth-class up base toward huge white colored slabs at bottom of gully. Keeping to the right, locate rusty hand cable and follow it over easy 4th and 5th class terrain for a few hundred feet. This old cable has been compromised (smashed)in a few places by rock fall (or vandalism), so trust it at your own risk.

At the cable's terminus, pick a line of ascent, generally following the major gully. There are endless options here, with terrain of all qualities and difficulties. The climbing in the gully is generally poorly protected slab, about 5.4-5.6. Some of the rock is very good, and some very, very bad. Do not hesitate to explore your options.

Ascend for several hundred feet through varied terrain, towards the huge notch below and west of the summit.From this notch, it is another short pitch to the top.

True, this is not your typical day at the crags and it is definitely a little weird. Regardless, it is lots of fun and successful parties will be rewarded with one of the coolest summit experiences in Southern Arizona.

Descent: From summit, descend to the east, down the Elephant's neck. This technical scramble is well cairned, although highly exposed in spots. Continue on for twenty minutes to the saddle.

From the major saddle east of Elephant Head, follow a very steep and brushy drainage southward back to the main wash 1000' below. This wash will return you to the road.


Standard rack


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