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Routes in The Druid

Admiral Throckmorton S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bron- yr-aur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Corporal Punishment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crap Weasel S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Druid Roof 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Grips of Wrath, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Lightning S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack the Slipper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lights Out S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lord Fowelsbain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Multi roof ???? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Of Mice and Men T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Paganizer, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rupley's Believe It Or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thingfish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eden Masters and Scott Ayers
Page Views: 11,142 total, 56/month
Shared By: Nick Kuhn on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Description

Following James DeRoussel's description for the crag, In Lightning will be one of the first routes you encounter. Look for the continuous bolt line that ends about 120' up the crag; it lies immediately to the left of two other bolted lines that have their anchors halfway up.

Follow the bolts to the two-bolt anchor. For the second pitch, it is wise to move the belay 40' to the large, flat ledge to the right. The moves to the ledge are unprotected Class 4. The ledge is devoid of anchors, so it's a good idea for the leader to clip the second pitch's first bolt to provide a belay. Once everyone's on the ledge, follow the bolts above the short difficulties and then run it out 50' over easy 5th class to the top of the crag. Don't fall up here. You can plug in some medium cams and slot some nuts for an anchor, or just wrap some boulders with webbing.

If you climb this in Monsoon season, chances are the route's name will hold special significance for you. Keep your eye on the clouds.

Protection

About 15 Quickdraws for the first pitch, and maybe 3-4 for the second. Long (20') webbing for the tree/boulder anchor for the second pitch, or use gear.
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
I agree 100% w Christian. Pretty sure if I took a tape measure up there is 15+ feet between bolts on traversing ground in one spot. I love this route. I just wouldn't pretend it lacks spice for the 8 or 9 leader. All 10 leaders and above will find it casual. That is because of the grade not the space between the bolts. Sep 6, 2016
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
In Lightning (Enlightening?) is as good as it gets on Lemmon. Beautiful views of Tucson, perfect stone and unusually comfortable holds. In fact, I think there are more jugs on this route than all the other 8's on the mountain combined.


Instead of walkie talkies, my partner and I climbed with vape pens and used smoke signals to get in touch at the top. This technique was also helpful for communicating with the boy scouts "Bowline" "how" "to" when I realized there wasn't a bolted anchor and couldn't figure out how to do a boulder wrap. May 8, 2016
Eric Sophiea  
 
Don't fall off? Oh... I've been doing this all wrong! Thanks for the beta!!!

Great climb! My pants get tight just thinking about it. Oct 29, 2013
I will repeat myself. If this thing is PG-13 all climbs are PG-13. It is really fun and is a great first lead at the grade. Orifice Politics is PG-13 if this is your standard. You could mess up getting to the first bolt and tumble down the ramp. Just saying that you could get hurt on any climb if you fall off. People tweak ankles on short falls all the time.

I think this PG-13 thing is BS anyway. CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. GRAVITY PLUS ROCK EQUAL SKINNED KNEE, ELBOW, BROKEN NAIL, ETC. DO NOT FALL OFF WHERE YOU CAN HIT THINGS IF POSSIBLE. Aug 11, 2012
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9 PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9 PG13
You guys are confusing difficulty with the consequences of a fall. A 13 foot runout on 5.8 is irrelevant to me because I normally don't fall on a 5.8. For someone who climbs at the level where they might actually take that 30 footer bouncing down the slab, it will be a concern. Aug 9, 2012
Jimbo  
I have to agree with EFR on this one. If this your idea of pg13. You need to stop doing all the Nancy boy clips Eric and I and Scot Ayers have done in the last the ten yeara and get on some stuff done in the eighties and early nineties. Don't tell me Tucson climbers are getting soft!!! Aug 9, 2012
If this thing is PG-13 all climbs are PG-13. It is really fun and is a great first lead at the grade. Aug 9, 2012
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9 PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9 PG13
PG-13, plenty of places you really don't want to fall. Jul 31, 2012
jeffrey c gibson
pheonix az
jeffrey c gibson   pheonix az
Super fun a must do 5 thumbs way up!!!! Oct 7, 2010
Jennie Allred
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Jennie Allred   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
This was a really fun route. Sustained 5.8 the whole way. The exposure is great all 100 feet up! Jul 8, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
p1 might be the best 5.8 sport pitch in southern arizona. Jun 27, 2010
I doubt it Susan, I didn't have Eden Masters around to pick out any of my new lines. As you might agree, there is usually a great woman leading most men around. Guys tend to go for women hook, line, and sinker! Jun 4, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
No sucking up here Eric....I call 'em as I see 'em. One of yours may be next!

~Susan Jun 4, 2007
Something is a little fishy with this comment Peplow. Are you sucking up to the FA team? Jun 2, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
Fun route, protects well and being sustained probably bumps the thing to a 5.8 even though the moves are technically less difficult. This of course is based on the first pitch only (which is what we did). First pitch can be TR/rapped/sing-shot with a single 70 meter cord from the anchor.

Nice line guys!

~Susan May 29, 2007
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
I'm going to start trailing a 1mm line and clip a paper cup to each climber's harness. Or maybe a signal flare: one shot for off belay, two for on belay. Smoke signals are a possibility too, but only if there is some plant life at the top and the wind is right. A big pair of cymbals might be a cool way to announce your arrival at the belay, sort of a victory crash. Of course, the three tugs on the rope thing would work in a pinch. You know, if you dropped a cymbal or your paper cup. Jun 28, 2006
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
Technology can make a person lazy... I like to save my breath by not having to yell for communication and tugging on the rope is hard work.. I will have to check out these Sat. Link Headsets! I'll let everyone know how they work.. (CAN YOU SEE ME NOW) Jun 25, 2006
I probably should run this by my internet sponsor before submitting this but I can't help myself. I think everyone should get the micro head cameras with satellite linkup. A small battery pack runs this fiber optic unit and the image is great. This way you can see exactly what is going on at all times. You would not need to talk or work out rope tug signals. If things get really tough you could use ASL as it would be cheaper than spending the extra $1100 for the audio feed. Heck lets just get a climbing video game and save the cost of the radios and gas to get to the climbs. Oh wait, 3 hard tugs = I am at the end of the pitch, when the rope goes tight wait a half a minute or so and start climbing. That will cost you $49.95 batteries not included. Jun 24, 2006
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
Two way (motorola radios) sure come in handy when climbing multi pitch routes. They have saved my partner and I a lot of grief when climbing on windy days. I realized how invaluable these radios were when climbing in the "Cochise Stronghold" when the leader is out of site of the belayer...... then you add the wind. Some may say you can communicate with rope tugs, but this is pretty tough if you are on a wondering route with the wind. Having a climbing partner where the two of you are familiar with each other helps! Jun 23, 2006
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
I didn't find it necessary to move the belay for the second pitch. Once on top, though, the boulders for anchoring are really far back from the edge. Odds are you won't be able to communicate with your belayer, although the Boy Scout camp across the valley will clearly hear you repeatedly screaming "On belay!!!", "On belay???" at each other. Jun 23, 2006
Vincent Greene  
  5.8
Tie a knot in the end of the rope to rap or lower off the first pitch! A 60 meter rope will only get you to a downclimbable ledge 5-6 feet off the ground. Jul 4, 2004
Vincent Greene  
  5.8
The first pitch has 12 bolts. Jul 4, 2004
Wes Turner
az
  5.8
Wes Turner   az
  5.8
solid .8 and pretty sustained...great climb. the second pitch is pretty good but the first is where the third star comes in...for a tougher finish try the bolted bulge to anchors straight up..a very solid .10 maybe .10d...(tough and fun!)lots of quickdraws(15 sounds right) May 24, 2004