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Standard Route aka Forbes-Montoya Route (West Approach)

5.6, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 32 votes
FA: unknown, 1930s
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Baboquivari Peak > W Face/ Southwest Arete
Warning Access Issue: Caution: Human and Drug Trafficking DetailsDrop down

Description

An ascent of the Standard route (usually called the west approach to the Forbes or Forbes-Montoya route, although this is not the route they followed in their original ascent) is an outing not to be missed, earning three stars not for the technical climbing, but for the experience as a whole. The mountain will make you earn its summit; with a lengthy approach, unmarked trails, fickle weather by Southern Arizona standards, and virtually unprotected yet straightforward climbing, it defines the classic Arizona mountaineering experience. Hikers who know how to belay and rappel can ascend this route if accompanied by an experienced climber.

The drive: To approach from the west, take Highway 86 to Sells. Turn south on what is probably the largest intersecting road in town. If you drive through Sells and start to think you missed the turn, you probably did. You should be heading towards the tiny town of Topawa. Babo will dominate your view to the left until you finally reach a sign pointing to the left for "Baboquivari Peak." There is a building/office on the east side of the road here. Turn east(left) and follow the dirt road until it forks, take the right fork, and follow it to its end at the Babo trailhead. My 2WD sedan made it fine, though I would have liked a bit more ground clearance. Bob Kerry's guide states the campground has water, tables, shelters, and is beautifully maintained. We found no running water, no shelter, and the place looked positively UNmaintained. Plan to bring all your own water, food, and stove if you expect to do dinner and camping. Supposedly there is a $3 use fee, but after 15 minutes of searching for where to pay both at the site and at the office back by the road, we gave up. Hope you're stocked up on good karma.

The hike: Unlike Forbes' and Montoya's first ascent, I recommend you do not do this in July. The hike in could be brutally hot between April and October. Late Fall or early Spring will yield comfortable hiking weather; just bring some warm clothes for the summit. 

From any point at the campground parking lot at the west, bushwhack for through about 100 feet to reach a large, wide trail/wash that looks almost like a road. Go left on this trail, following it in the direction of the peak for less than a mile. You'll reach an intersection with signs. Go left onto the Waw Biluk trail to the summit, which climbs steadily for 5 miles and 3500 feet of elevation gain to eventually reach the Lion's Ledge, giving glimpses of Baboquivari along the way. Near the end of the hike, you should be able to make out the Great Ramp, a massive, bare slabby ramp which marks the entire lower north side of Baboquivari peak. The trail will become overgrown once on the Lion's Ledge and end, with the option of going left or right. Head left, toward the Great Ramp and the beginning of the Standard route.

The Great Ramp: 250+ ft. In the 1930s, the CCC installed stairs at the Great Ramp and a ladder at the Ladder Pitch to facilitate easy access to an observation tower that was at the summit. The stairs, ladder, and tower have long since been dismantled, but some remnants of rusted steel and wood remain strewn throughout the route. I would not trust any of the old hardware - some of it looks like it could be pulled out by hand. The Great Ramp is low 3rd class climbing that could be soloed in approach shoes, but it is quite smooth and sustained and a fall here would risk serious injury. An inexperienced climber wearing sneakers may balk at ascending this unroped. There are trees and boulders that can be slung for protection, and some cracks that take pro. At the top of the Great Ramp, bushwhack through a cluster of oak trees, staying close to the wall on the right for maybe 100 feet. This will eventually open up at the Ladder Pitch.

The Ladder Pitch: 120 ft; 5.4. The Ladder Pitch is where this route merges with the original Forbes ascent to the summit. The Ladder Pitch doesn’t protect well, although it is low 5th class. There is a pair of new-ish bolts halfway through the pitch and a pair of new bolts with chains at the top of the pitch, next to the tree that was previously used as the belay/rappel anchor. Belay from these bolts.

From the top of the Ladder Pitch, head right (west). Climb a short chimney with a chockstone, entering a gully with scree and light vegetation. Turn left at the gully, following the gully up toward the summit. As the gully system weakens and opens up, stay close to the wall on your right and continue the scramble to the summit.

For descent, carefully retrace your steps and rappel all three pitches. Be careful when you are routefinding on the way down. It is easy to descend into the wrong gully when leaving the summit. The oaks can hide the edges of the cliffs. These gullies invariably end at sheer cliff edges.

Crank back to your car and don't forget to take a picture of the towering peak as you're driving away.

Protection

Three or four quickdraws, webbing, rap ring, and a 60m rope. Pro consists of old bolts and even older metal brackets. A solitary 8-inch tree provides the top anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steph seconding the ladder pitch in less-than-optimal conditions, April 12, 2009.
[Hide Photo] Steph seconding the ladder pitch in less-than-optimal conditions, April 12, 2009.
Scrambling down the tricky part between the roped climbing and the summit.
[Hide Photo] Scrambling down the tricky part between the roped climbing and the summit.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Kuhn
  5.6
[Hide Comment] For some reason, Bob's comments on this route show up under the Homepage's Comments link, but not under this route description. His own trip report is an excellent, thorough description of the approach, hike, and climb, especially under less than ideal conditions. Lots of pics, too. Here's the link: climbaz.com/climbs/baboquiv… May 11, 2004
[Hide Comment] This looks like a really cool climb. Would it be too chilly to do around X-mas time? Sep 13, 2004
Nick Kuhn
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Well, temps are subjective, aren't they? Babo will probably be warmer than a Colorado 14er and colder than Mendoza Canyon. Excluding a winter storm, I would anticipate summit temps in the 30s-40s (~20 degrees cooler than Tucson). However, even with recent good weather, snow and ice can linger on the Great Ramp and the technical pitch. It's not uncommon for winter parties to pack ice axes and crampons and use them. Adds some spice to desert climbing... Sep 16, 2004
jbak x
tucson, az
[Hide Comment] The Forbes route is a great outing in a fantastic place but the 5.6 rating is a bit much. Anyone who has any actual climbing experience can easily 3rd-class the route. After a winter storm it's a whole different deal though. Jul 9, 2007
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] On 3/29/08, there were two new-ish 3/8" bolts on the ladder pitch and a two bolt/chain anchor atop the pitch. Don't know who installed it, but this new hardware eliminates the need to use either the tree or the old sketchy hardware. Mar 30, 2008
Clay Allred
Moab UT
 
[Hide Comment] Baboquivari was awesome. First I respect the land very much and am grateful that the nation there is willing to let outsiders come in and climb their sacred mountain. It was very very beautiful. I have just a couple thoughts about the mountain climb.

- We entered and signed the form with no fee, that was nice.
- The trail head on the south side of the campground was pretty easy to find then the rest of the hike is totally obvious.
- My wife and I climbed the ladder section roped up but without rock shoes and it was easy, maybe a 5.5-5.6 move in there.
- The protection on route stinks but the anchors are bomber. Nice setup.

When it come to Babo I say do it. It's great. Keep in mind it is a 5,263 foot climb to 7,730 so it is a workout. I think it took us 3 hours to go up and 2 to come down. Mar 26, 2009
Brendan Leonard
Denver, Hollarado
 
[Hide Comment] We climbed the Forbes Route on April 12, after it had poured rain on and off in Tucson the day before. The night before, the summit pyramid was obscured by a cloud, which we didn't realize meant it was snowing up there. The Great Ramp was dry, but pellets of snow and ice were dropping off the top onto us. Above the Great Ramp, we encountered about 4-6 inches of snow all the way to the Ladder Pitch, which was running in water and looked to have a little snow on the route.

All of the decent-sized holds on the route were covered in snow and ice, and I led it, chipping out ice and snow with a big locker the whole way up. Pretty harrowing. The exit right from the belay anchor was covered in enough snow that we roped up for it, and then the last scramble up the gully to the summit was socked in with snow, too. To descend, we rapped that gully (I assume it's usually just a scramble down), then did another rap down to the Ladder Pitch anchor, and the final rap off the route.

What's normally probably a big day turned into a really big day for us, on account of the snow. I'd caution that if you can see snow on the west face of the peak in the morning, the Ladder Pitch might be scary, and dangerous. We had a blast, though. Apr 27, 2009
Don P. Morris
Ventura, CA
[Hide Comment] Sorry to have to say it, but what you climbed and described here is not the Forbes (Forbes-Montoya) route, although the technical pitch on this route is in common with the Forbes Route. Your description is the Standard Route,basically the old CCC trail built in the 1930's that erected the two stairways (long ago the Great Ramp had a staircase) that allowed relatively easy access to the top. The first time I did Babo the lower staircase was still intact and there were remnants of the upper staircase in place.

The Forbes route ascends from the north saddle of Bobo to a prominent notch (ist pitch about 5.2) to a brushy ledge. You then climb a sloping face on your left (50 feet, maybe 5.2). Then you brush over to the trail and climb the longest pitch.

I wouldn't recommend reaching the north saddle from the trail. It is a yucky bushwack. It is easy to camp in the north saddle and you can get water from the spring on Lion's Ledge or from Juniper seep along the trail that leads from the ranch below to the North saddle.

Green's Rock Climbing Arizona has good descriptions as well. Nov 1, 2009
hair mama san
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] New bolts have been added so the ladder pitch is much safer. Babo Park sign is standing. Go past the high school and look for promient road on the left. Camp ground is well kept with tables, bathrooms, running water, and firepits. Trail is easy to follow once you get off the desert floor. Many cow trails mislead hikers untill you reach a sign for the trail. Feb 8, 2011
[Hide Comment] Fire Info/Trail & Climb Condition: On October 10th we went up the Standard Route (trail to the Great Ramp then the Forbes Ladder Pitch) from the Tohono O'odham (West) side of the mountain. This part of the mountain burned this summer. It appears that we were the first group to hike this way since the fire (one other group signed the register but they came from the East up the SE Arete.

Trail: The fire has cause downed trees/branches, erosion and a lot of overgrowth that has obscurred/obliterated much of the trail. Be ready for challenging route finding on the trail all the way to the Great Ramp.

Great Ramp: The scree on the lower section of the Great Ramp was never good, but now it's very unstable because of the burned areas. We had a lot of rockfall. Helmets are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Forbes Ladder Pitch: The oak at the top of the climb (the old belay tree) burned and appears dead, though it may come back from the base. Do not count on this tree being stable for belay or hand lines. The anchors at the top are still bomber.

Final scramble and Peak: Much of the final scramble is completely devegetated and very loose soil. It will be very sensitive to erosion. Be conscious of where you walk to hopefully minimize our impact here while it hopefully recovers. The peak burned only at the North and West Edges right up to the Cairn/Shrine but the offerings and shrine were untouched. Weird. Oct 11, 2012
[Hide Comment] The pitch can feel pretty run-out, but luckily you're on easy ground. Solid two bolt belay at the top. The scramble to get to the climbing was much more intense than the climbing itself. I think the fire damage left a lot of the approach very loose, as Eric mentioned a helmet would be recommended.
Very loose, steep ground to cover on the approach


Baboquivari at sunrise
Mar 28, 2016
mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] Don't bother bringing trad gear up for this. For one, the climbing is 5.easy. Second, there's absolutely no place for pro whatsoever...and if you could jam a micro in somewhere, the rock is not stable enough to hold a fall. 4 quickdraws is all you will need, any more would be a waste to haul up 4500 ft.

The down climb on the unroped section of the great ramp and above the roped climbing section are definitely the technical crux of the route. The actual crux is finding your way and hauling the rope. May 9, 2016