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Routes in South Fin

Chicken Co-op T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cloud Nine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cornholer's Incest S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coroner's Inquest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lion's Line S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Male Menopause T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Montse, Donde Esta,'91 S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Old Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rooting for the Lions S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tongue Lashing T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Trot S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dave Baker, Fig Fiola
Page Views: 6,746 total · 37/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Jan 31, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route ascends the huge, prominent left-facing corner near the south end of South Fin.

Start up the clean dihedral on thin fingers until you can get a stance for pro. Continue up through broken blocks, staying generally in the corner, until you come right under the large roof near the top.

While there are a couple of finishes, the most common is to move right under roof and up around corner. Continue up 15 feet to anchors.

While easily protected, this route is long and quite sustained, save for a couple good rests. It is also extremely fun! Some of the best crack moves around.

To descend, move back about ten feet to chains for Male Menopause, and rap down west face of South Fin back to start.

Protection

Standard Rack, Chain Anchors

Photos

Randy A
  5.10a
Randy A  
  5.10a
It is a 5.9 only if you ignore the start ... that's a 5.10a Apr 27, 2017
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Indeed at jtree this would get a ton of attention. Bring lots of long runners Couple gear thoughts: Sweet yellow totem/.4 slotted in plate out left protects final moves. blue totem/.3 is perfect at the very edge of roof, up high not under Mar 20, 2016
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
A truly classic line. You'd have to wait in line for this thing if it were in J Tree. Mar 2, 2016
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
No Andrew, I don't think the ASCA will ever supply gear for anchor updates that don't involve truly suspect bolts. And using them here just because I was impatient and didn't have any others at the time was my Bush-league error. I've since made up for that by buying more identical gear, which I will use on future replacements. Will have to take a look at those anchors on Vistacruiser soon, what seemed suspect to you about them? Mar 24, 2015
Andrew Megas-Russell   Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett, very nice touch on the anchor! Thanks for doing this. Seems like a very appropriate location for the anchor! Nice work.

There was some noticeable wear on the rings today. People, please don't top-rope straight off of the rings; use a couple quick draws if you are yo-yo toproping.

Other classic routes on mt. lemmon deserve anchor updating attention like this!! Especially Chimney Rock.

Can we revive the anchor at the top of vistacruiser now?? I'll help with labor if the ASCA supplies the bolts. Oct 25, 2014
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
Straight up, slightly right at the first bulge and turning the high roof to the right up high makes for a great line. The crux is the first move - tiny piece of brass protects it well. As stated above, there are now two chains and you can rap straight down to your packs. May 19, 2013
Tradiban  
 
Totally classic, hardest moves are unprotected right off the deck. Nail those and cruise the rest of the way. A rap down the N face with a 70m takes you back to the packs easily. Dec 11, 2012
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10-
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10-
Move(s) right off the deck felt like awkward, balancy 10- at least. Can be protected w a microcam.

Rest of the route is 5.9 although you can make it harder if you don't find the right stems. Nov 2, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
the exposure after you pull the roof will put a smile on any climber's face.

the views of hawkbill spire from the belay are great. Jan 4, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
best freakin 9 i've ever done. May 1, 2008
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
Did this route on 1-19-08; great climb, for me the crux was stepping out from under the lower roof into the crack, as well as a few tricky face moved down low. Overall though i thought it took very good pro and followed a great line; very fun long climb. One of the best 5.9's I've climbed for sure. Jan 23, 2008
Daniel Cohn
  5.9
Daniel Cohn  
  5.9
Use the chains on the left side at the top of the route. I didn't see them and used another set of chains 15 feet to the right, but there was too much drag. Nov 26, 2006
Wes Turner
az
5.9
Wes Turner   az
5.9
great climb.. the crux is really the first 15-20' but I have seen some people get sketched out stepping out onto the face from the roof. Pay attention to your runners and make sure you long sling under the roof! Jun 14, 2004

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