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Routes in Paradox Rock

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cause is the Cure, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Paradox Lost S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradox, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quandry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reuben Hair Shift, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Teaser S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 89 total · 0/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Jan 11, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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This is the last bolted line on the upper half of Paradox Rock. It is on the face just to the right of Afternoon Delight's curving crack. The route offers some tricky and sustained face moves (read: pretty tough for a 5.8+) before gaining a big ledge below a small overhang. Getting up and over the roof is not terribly difficult, but provides some interesting moves. Rock quality is excellent and the bolts protects the climb well.


10 bolts with chains.


Wes Turner
Wes Turner   az
fun route but could prove to be tough for the novice .8 leader. sustained .8 down low(with some .8+) to a rest 3/4 of the way to airy moves up high. And it is a difficult read for a 5.8 climb. especially down low. quickdraws only May 19, 2004
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
I felt like 9- was more appropriate, but this is the type of climb that is difficult and scary for me. I also thought following the bolts over the overhang up top rather than going left was at least 10a, maybe 10b. Definately a good climb and extremely well protected. May 8, 2006
Jason Schrack
Jason Schrack  
Very hard for an 8+. Very well protected and extremely fun. I love the delicate moves this climb requires. Lots of technique, little strength. I felt the middle slabby section to the steep face before the ledge was at least 9+. Feb 23, 2007
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Heehee I'm actually old enough to remember The Partridge Family, it got to Brazil much later, like 77 or 78

(thanks JT for finding this)…

In Almonzo's defense, it was misspelled in the guidebook too (thanks for fixing it here). Mar 16, 2009
Tucson, AZ
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
I concur with the above comments. This climb seems more like a solid 5.9 compared to other 5.8s on Mt Lemmon. Dec 14, 2015

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