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Routes in Paradox Rock

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cause is the Cure, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Paradox Lost S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradox, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quandry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reuben Hair Shift, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Teaser S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 66 total, 0/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Jan 14, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Afternoon Delight lies on the upper half of Paradox Rock, just beyond the very large roof 40 ft off the ground. The route follows the gently curving crack between the two bolted lines Paradox Lost (5.8+) and The Reuben Hair Shift (5.8+).

The curving crack offers 40 feet of easily protectable climbing, before it peters out to nothing, leaving a long section of runout face. The climbing here is very easy, but there is potential for a big (possibly ground) fall. Above the face, the climb hits a large ledge, which is shared by The Reuben Hair Shift. Several options lead to the chains at the top of The Reuben Hair Shift. Alternatively, you can top out up and left or by going straight up, both of which appear to be relatively easy.

Note: If you don't end the climb at the Reuben Hair Shift chains, use a 60m rope.

Protection

Take a range of small to medium nuts and cams.

Photos

Jason Schrack
  5.7 PG13
Jason Schrack  
  5.7 PG13
This is an excellent little route. Nothing like real trad routes to get the blood flowing. I don't think this deserves an R rating. The upper middle section is run out a little bit, but the climbing is like 5.3. Big jugs. Finishing up just left of Rueben Hair Shift and then traversing to the chains is an awesome finish. Feb 23, 2007