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Routes in Cell Blocks

Cell Block Eight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cell Block Nine T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cell Block Six S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kurt Schroeder, Ben Burnham 1999
Page Views: 2,065 total, 11/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Dec 21, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

The is the left-most of the three Cell Block climbs. The Cell Blocks can be found on the west side of the creek, just above the point where it makes a 90 degree turn to the east.

Cell Block Eight is a great climb capped off by an airy and committing move to get you to the top. The first 50 feet of the climb leads past 3 bolts on relatively low angle slab. At this point, rather than going over the roof to get you onto the "Cell Block", the route follows cracks along the right side of the block, where an exciting blind step takes you around to the face at the top of the climb.

This climb makes for an exciting moderate lead.

Protection

There are 4 bolts on this route. The climbing between the 3rd and 4th bolts is a bit runout, which could be helped by small/medium nuts or cams. There are chains at the top of this climb.

Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.8 R
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.8 R
If I remember correctly, without gear the runout between bolts 3 and 4 is at least 15 feet.

You can make all the dorky engineering calculations you want to try to convince yourself that a 35-foot fall on 5.8 slab is safe, but trust me, it's not. You may get freakishly lucky once and not hit anything on the way down or not flip upside down and swing in headfirst, but eventually you will get seriously injured. In a fall that long, even swinging back in feet-first can break foot/ankle/leg bones. Feb 1, 2013
Severancepay
  5.7+ R
Severancepay  
  5.7+ R
I hionestly, didn't even see the 3rd bolt til it was right in front of me. The 4th I looked and I looked but I couldn't see anything. Is it on the right of the block or right of the block. There is a small tree there now that kinda obstructs view. Upside to the small tree is that it's well rooted and can be a nice hold if you need a break.

I also believe the fall to be safe if you have someone well anchored on belay. Since this is a slab of sorts your fall will be reduced by friction and there will be a swing but there is nothing to hit. A daisy chain should be a good enough anchor considering the friction and your belay as conterbalance. The force on the rope will be 1.2kN from the block if you weigh 190lbs.

This is not a bad fall, albeit a scary one though. Oct 21, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.7+
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.7+
I'm with Meghan, 5.7+R

If you're not putting gear in during the 5.5 section....don't fall. Apr 20, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.8 R
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.8 R
Changing the description to "sport,trad" would probably help as far as people not thinking it's a sport route. I believe it's listed as mixed (B,G) in the guidebook as well. Apr 6, 2009
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
 
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
 
To agree with the posts above, this is not a sport route. You'll be very unhappy without at least a set of nuts and a couple medium cams. Apr 5, 2009
This was not put up as a sport route. I always showed a cam or two up under the ledge snaking around to the right of the block. If my head was right, only one cam. The first time I led it as I stepped out left a big chunk of the hold broke off.!!This leaves the small foot hold now there. Sorry. I did see Matt Bunz do it direct once, 10d, 10+ seems about right. kas Nov 30, 2008
Meghan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.7+ R
Meghan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.7+ R
Not only is the climbing between the 3rd and 4th bolts runout, but you can't see the 4th bolt (which is on the arete above/right of the roof) or the anchors from even six feet above the 3rd bolt, so if you haven't done the climb before, it looks like there's nothing there. It's there-- just have to keep climbing. You will probably want a cam or nut between bolts 3 and 4. Otherwise a fall would hurt. Fun climb. Jun 26, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
Its rated 10+ if you go strait through May 5, 2008
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
What is the rating for going directly up onto the cell block rather than going to the side to the last bolt(on top rope of course)? I thought it might be a 5.10+/5.11- move. Dec 11, 2005