Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Alcatraz Wall

Birdman T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoosgal T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Machinegun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scarface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solitary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Kurt Schroeder
Page Views: 2,069 total, 11/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Machinegun is the right-most climb on Alcatraz Wall. This is the last major crag on the east side of the creek as you head down through Jailhouse Rock. To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.

This route is a very short face climb which is not that interesting. Climbaz.com recommends carrying extra gear, but this is pretty unnecessary.

Protection

Two bolts, plus chains.

Photos

The left anchor bolt is definitely not safe (split in half, rusted and spinning) the right one doesn't look too good either. I decided not to risk a top rope on it.
Alcatraz is a great little wall though. I took some kids there and we had a fun day climbing all the routes. Jan 2, 2017
I think the beat-up left belay bolt is the result of rock fall. There is other evidence on and below the route (rock shards) that there has been some rock fall activity here. Be careful out there. Aug 27, 2004
JayCap  
Looks like someone started to chop the cold shut for the left-hand chains. It is scarred and loose. Aug 27, 2004
I was climbing at Alcatraz Wall on 6/29 and noticed that the waist level belay bolts (cold shuts) had been chopped (not removed, CHOPPED). The foot level belay bolt on the new route between Scarface and Hoosgal is still present. The chopping happened since the last time I climbed there in Jan/Feb.

Very uncool. Wonder if it was the same person who took the pins off Standard Route on Chimney Rock?

Please contact me if you have any info.

George Marsden

gbmaz@yahoo.com Jun 4, 2004
First ascent was Kurt Schroeder Mar 14, 2004