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Routes in Alcatraz Wall

Birdman T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoosgal T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Machinegun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scarface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solitary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kurt Schroeder
Page Views: 2,626 total, 14/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

This climb follows the bolts on the face just right of the zig-zagging crack on the Alcatraz Wall. This is the last major crag on the east side of the creek as you head down through Jailhouse Rock. To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.

This face climb is probably the best route on Alcatraz Wall.

Protection

Three bolts, bring a few small/medium stoppers or cams to get you from the 2nd to 3rd bolt. There are chains up top.

Photos

hdjohnson
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
hdjohnson   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
4 bolts now and biners on the chains. Jul 31, 2017
Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
 
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
 
This is a good beginning trad lead. It is well protected and easier than 5.7 for all of the climb except the start which is 5.7. Jan 3, 2016
ryan dillon
Tucson, AZ.
ryan dillon   Tucson, AZ.
Robert,
A 9/16 wrench comes in handy to have in your pack when you run into situations like this. Mar 22, 2010
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Has the zig-zagging crack been climbed? Anyone have any info on that one, mostly, is it worth doing? Jun 22, 2009
jbak  
Joseph, the BIRDMAN on Aves tower blows this route *into*the*weeds*. It's a 3 pitch adventure climb that has a lot of air for the grade. Jun 11, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
I noticed that there is a route called "Birdman" on the Aves Tower in SQII. It sounds like it might be a fun route. Jun 8, 2007
Jimbo  
jbak, I use clear silicon caulking and granite dust to hide my bad holes. Seems to work well and stand the test of time.
Hey, when we gonna go climb at the Weather Top? Dec 9, 2006
Jimbo  
The ethics of Bens "Belay bolts" can be argued, the fact is, they are unsafe for both the belayer and the leader. If the leader falls the belayer does a face plant into the rock. Which could cause said belayer to lose control of the rope dropping the leader.
If Ben wants to "keep stuff really safe" those bolts should be back away from the cliff several feet, and the belayer should be tied in with enough cord to move, in case something gets pulled off, but not so much slack as to smack the wall when catching a fall.
Ben is doing climbers a disservice by placing his belay bolts. Newbie climbers should be made aware that these bolts are not standard practice and are indeed unsafe. Dec 9, 2006
jbak  
A quick note on the topic of bolt disguise...putting rock dust on epoxy usually just creates a mess. The dust just turns dark in the liquid epoxy so it doesn't match the rock color anyway. And liquid epoxy almost always leaves some kind of sheen. The best solution I've found is a tiny piece of dark epoxy PUTTY over the bolt remains. Most people don't even notice it if artfully done. A shot of tan rustoleum to color the putty can make it invisible. Nov 9, 2006
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
"First Ascentionists" can and will do what they want with their own routes! If I recall correctly, those belay bolts were placed by the person that put up those routes. If they are putting these bolts at the base of routes other than their own, removal will most likely be the result!! Nov 8, 2006
Those belay bolts should ALL be removed. They are unneccessary and we should strive to do the least amount of damage to the rock as possible, i.e. only putting in bolts when absolutely neccessary.

The chopped bolts are ugly and should be epoxied over and dusted w/ powdered rock from the wall to colormatch.

Just my opinion.... Nov 8, 2006
I was climbing at Alcatraz Wall on 6/29 and noticed that the waist level belay bolts (cold shuts) had been chopped (not removed, CHOPPED). The foot level belay bolt on the new route between Scarface and Hoosgal is still present. The chopping happened since the last time I climbed there in Jan/Feb.

Very uncool. Wonder if it was the same person who took the pins off Standard Route on Chimney Rock?

Please contact me if you have any info.

George Marsden

gbmaz@yahoo.com Jun 4, 2004
First ascent was Kurt Schroeder Mar 14, 2004