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Routes in Alcatraz Wall

Birdman T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoosgal T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Machinegun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scarface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solitary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ben Burnham
Page Views: 1,750 total, 10/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

This climb heads up the obvious zig-zagging crack on the Alcatraz Wall. This is the last major crag on the east side of the creek as you head down through Jailhouse Rock. To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.

This is a nice lead if you're looking for a relaxed climb where you can practice super-easy gear placement. The 5.7 rating is a bit too stiff. The hardest move seems to be getting off the ground, after which the route follows the major crack up and right, cuts across the face where the going gets easy, and rejoins the crack up top.

Protection

Small and medium cams and stoppers. There are chains up top.

Photos

That's awful, Aaron! That sounds almost as inconsiderate as people who bring their dogs off leash to climbing areas! I'm curious how your leashed and well controlled dog was able to get to the human waste? I wish everyone would be more considerate of others. Bummer. Dec 8, 2013
Thanks a bunch for the individual who took a dump right at the base of Alcatraz wall and left it under a rock. Some kid kicked it off and my dog was eating some human feces when i was belaying... is it too much to ask to walk away from the routes and bury your own waste? Pretty lame if you ask me. Apr 3, 2010
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.6
joshf   missoula, mt
  5.6
this climb essentially becomes a staircase after the first 20 feet, the protection takes some thought because there is a bit of dirt and blocky rock around. Nov 23, 2007
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Pretty easy climbing. I agree there may be no 5.7 move. It is runout to the first gear placement but pretty relaxed thereafter. Jun 5, 2006
I was climbing at Alcatraz Wall on 6/29 and noticed that the waist level belay bolts (cold shuts) had been chopped (not removed, CHOPPED). The foot level belay bolt on the new route between Scarface and Hoosgal is still present. The chopping happened since the last time I climbed there in Jan/Feb.

Very uncool. Wonder if it was the same person who took the pins off Standard Route on Chimney Rock?

Please contact me if you have any info.

George Marsden

gbmaz@yahoo.com Jun 4, 2004
FA was Ben Burnham Mar 14, 2004