PRINT: Rock Climb Baby Jr. Gets Spanked, Cochise Stronghold

Baby Jr. Gets Spanked

5.6, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.7 from 146 votes
FA: Mike Strassman
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > W Stronghold > Isle of You > Trad Rock

Description

An easy climb up the black-ish water groove on the right side of Trad Rock. Note: the topo in B. Kerry's book shows this as the right-most climb on the wall. This is no longer the case. A good low-angle warm-up for anything else on the wall.

Protection

6 bolts with chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hannah posing halfway up BJGS.

Positions are approxomate and not all bolts are shown. Green = Baby Jr, Red=Unknown, Blue=Baby Jr. Gets Spanked, Purple=Big Nosed Kate (only anchore is marked)

Giselle nearing the chains on Baby Jr. We both thought this was pretty thin in spots for a 5.6. Oh well, still a fun climb climb!

GregC showing off for the moon.

Todd K leading BJGS.

Me leading BJGS

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bobby Hanson
Tucson, AZ

The Kerry guide also gives this two stars. I have climbed this route twice. I didn't really enjoy it the first time; but when I came back about two years later, I decided to give it another shot. I still don't like it. Nothing on the climb seemed very intersting, in fact the only thing that I remembered about the route was that the bolts all feel like they are in the wrong spot.

I thought O.K. Corral was much much better. I actually remembered many of the individual moves over the course of two years. May 20, 2005

Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ

5.5 PG13

Only one star b/c it's not something i would repeat but the one redeeming feature is that it's a great 1st lead for someone needing some confidence. Nothing really hard about any of it but plenty of bolts that are easily reachable. Great for beginner lead. May 31, 2008

Steven Reneau

5.7

From the ground, the climb is ~95 ft long, with 7 bolts. Long scramble to the first bolt. Apr 19, 2012

mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ

5.7 PG13

With all due respect to Daryll Allen, I feel compelled to disagree with his comment on this being an ideal 1st lead. This climb isn't incredibly difficult, but it seemed a bit sandbagged to me at 5.6 (felt more like a 5.7) and there are a number of cruxes going up headwalls/bulges with significant ledge fall potential below each crux. Finally, the runout to the first bolt (although on easy ground if the leader chooses to not do the 5.8 direct start up slab) would spook me if I were a new leader. Apr 25, 2016

Tyson Ferryman
Bailey, CO

5.7

Hate to give it a “bomb” rating, but it’s close. Not great climbing. Not bolted well. Not 5.6. Agree with everything Mike Hilbert said above. Frequent ledge fall potential. Not bolted for a 5.6 leader. YMMV Nov 11, 2019

Daniel Kat
Denver, CO

Yeah weird movement and not the safest falls.... an OK route but I wouldn't recommend it for a new leader, that said it's not soo bad. Dec 18, 2019

BRZ
Arizona, Tucson

So the pictures here, combined with the Bok and Kerry guides both describe this climb as having a black streak finishing at a V-notch feature in the rock. Maybe it was the 90 degrees or I just do not know what 5.6 feels like, but the climb going up the black streak felt every bit as hard as OK corral and Baby Jr. Although I would find it hard to believe its been published in 3 areas wrong.

There is also an unknown bolt line between the black streak and Baby Jr. Jul 20, 2020