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Routes in Tweener Wall

G-1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Deal S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Slack at GAC S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,550 total, 9/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This route follows the arete on the second fin-like outcropping past the main bulk of the Left Hand Wall. Getting there is much less than half the fun. Harder than it looks, this climb is exciting and committing. The difficulty is fairly consistent and involves several airy and exposed moves. Note: Despite its 5.7 rating, this climb is significantly more difficult than Limbomaniac, Unemployment Line, and Resume Builder down below. Additionally, blowing the 4th clip could lead to a spectacular crevice plunge.

Protection

6 bolts with chains up top.

Photos

Kristina Bergdahl-Martel
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
Kristina Bergdahl-Martel   Tucson, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
Leading this gets your blood pumping a bit - you need to commit to the the 'crux' bulge move after the 4th bolt to successfully complete it. A fall here would not be bad like a fall would be elsewhere. FUN and EXPOSED = ) Nov 21, 2011
Poor bolting and suspect rock. Probably doesn't deserve a full R rating, but since this a climb that a lot of beginners get on it is worth letting them know that blowing a clip would really suck. Mar 14, 2009
David K
  5.8 R
David K  
  5.8 R
Climbed this on Saturday. Harder than a 5.7 imo. Also, 3rd bolt is loose. Feb 17, 2009
Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.8- R
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.8- R
The bolts off the start of this climb are in bad places IMO. The first bolt wont stop any kind of fall and the second is pretty high above it. Not that great and harder then 5.7. Jan 19, 2009
Braxtron
...
  5.7+
Braxtron   ...
  5.7+
Clipping is more scary for shorter folks. I disagree with the R-rating, this climb is not that dangerous.

In my opinion, none of the routes in this mini-canyon are worth your time. Feb 5, 2007
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.7 R
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.7 R
Few fun moves, sort of chossy, and I thought the bolts were in bad spots, but I give it a star for sheer excitement. Great exposure on the overhanging arete and nice photo ops from up in the gully (you'll look like your 500 feet in the air and your mom will freak out). Crux is up high. Possibly the most grunting I've ever done on a 5.7. May 9, 2006