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Routes in Hitchcock Pinnacle

East Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North Face T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Direct "Panic Room" T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northwest Route T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Bob Kamps? 1960
Page Views: 7,619 total · 37/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Nov 16, 2001 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


94 Opinions

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Description

The north side of Hitchcock Pinnacle is one of the most climbed routes on Mt Lemmon.

Standing below the north face, stem up onto the large block/ledge atached to the right side of the pillar. From here, step left onto face and edge up past one bolt to a large flake. Up flake and right to top out.

Lower off chains.

Protection

small nuts, tri-cams, slcd's...tricky pro?quickdraws

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2018.
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.7
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.7
Aesthetically, this is a two star route. Subtract a star for every 10 tourists or every single RV at the pullout.

I understand there was a small bolting issue on this rock. There is currently one bolt on this route. Strangely, the remaining bolt is next to the best natural protection available on the route. Down lower, a variety of aliens come in handy. Jan 2, 2005
JayCap
 
JayCap  
 
There are currently two bolts protecting this route -- the first is just around the corner as you step onto the face, and the second to the left of the bulge. (See photo). Sep 16, 2005
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.7
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.7
Jay, I think that first bolt is off-route. I think there is another route that goes up that side. If you traverse in lower, you can protect those horizontal cracks with aliens or cams of similar size. OR you can go straight up from the ground through those horizontals :) Oct 19, 2005
JayCap
 
JayCap  
 
You are right, Bobby. I believe that first bolt is for the 5.8 route that goes pretty much straight up from that spot. Thanks for catching my mistake. Jan 22, 2006
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
I actually think climbing the route in front of tourists is part pf the fun. Normally it's annoying, but you have to accept it for this particular route. I say pick a major holiday and do it with a real crowd. You'll get a huge round of applause and tons of cameras will snap your picture atop the pinnacle. Tourists will surround you after you rap off and ask questions like "How tall is that, like 200 feet?" and want their picture taken with you in all your gear. Trust me, there is no other way a 5.7 will garner you that much fleeting fame and glory! May 9, 2006
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
a great route because it's the easiest way to a fun summit. an excellent place to take beginners. they will love it!

just wondering though...what is up with the unnecessary bolts?? the one on the north face route could be chopped and no one would miss it; the one on the northwest route could probably be removed as well and leaders would just have to use small cams in the horizontal down low. Jul 14, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Are you trolling for a good long thread Jon? Get back to work!

Maybe we should chop the first two pitches of Bachar/Yerian since a 19 year old kid did it without clipping the bolts. Check out the CO forum and you can read the article. Don't think he has said a thing about chopping bolts yet. No need to make a statement with the chisel his climbing already has! Jul 14, 2008
Brendan Leonard
Denver, Hollarado
Brendan Leonard   Denver, Hollarado
We got on this after assuming from the description in Rock Climbing Arizona that it was a sport climb protected by two bolts. Kind of a scary climb if you go up with just a couple of quickdraws and no gear. Apr 27, 2009
Jimbo  
On the other hand the climb is only 40 feet long and you can see every move from the ground. A little less time staring at the guide book and a little more time looking up at the actual route may have given you a clue as to what you were getting yourself into.
Learn to rely on yourself, more than a guide book. You'll be way better off in the long run.

Climb safe!! Apr 27, 2009
This is an amazing route with good view. Pro is not needed, but would prob make this more safe for the leader. I was just out last night on the .7 .8 routes. Both are fun. Oct 8, 2009
there's currently two bolts if you start from the ledge on the west of the Hoodoo. Would feel so much less sketchy if there was a bolt between the first and second (at least for sport). A fall between the first and second would swing you right into the ledge. Aug 5, 2013
Justin Headley   Tucson
If you have trad gear, just go straight up the north face. Much more satisfying than missing half the climb by scrambling up to the first ledge. Apr 28, 2016
Tabitha Deptula
Burbank
Tabitha Deptula   Burbank
Sooo....I suck at life sometimes. I left a draw on the second bolt. I'd compensate whoever could send that to me. Dec 26, 2017
The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2018. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 11, 2018

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