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Routes in El Dorado

Black Gold S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Brown Smoothies TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghost Upstairs, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kindergeist T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nuggets S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Olas Negras S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Poltergeist TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: John Dalbey, Mike Morley
Page Views: 523 total, 3/month
Shared By: John Dalbey on Dec 18, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts at the base of "Ghost Upstairs" and then goes up and left along a dirty-looking ramp/gully. The climbing looks vegetated and loose but is actually reasonably good. We did this climb using all clean protection. Most of the climbing is very easy, 5.3ish, except the last 15 feet over a bulge are about 5.6. There's one big rock/flake halfway up that seems unsound so beware. We topped out at the new two-bolt anchor placed Nov '04 for Poltergeist. We were careful to stay entirely to the right of the Poltergeist line. The climb is about 40 feet high. This route would be a good training climb for a novice "trad" leader. The route can take a wide variety of passive, active, and natural protection.

Protection

Medium nuts, tie-off slings, #2.5 Friend, Yellow Alien, #5 RP, (or other comparable gear).Bolted anchor and chains at the top.

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.6
Floyd Hayes  
  5.6
Slater's guide lists only two climbs for this formation: Poltergeist 5.6 and The Ghost Upstairs 5.5. This climb is the most obvious and natural line on the left side of the formation, plus it's a relatively well protected and easy lead. After looking at the photo and descriptions in Slater's book and leading it onsight, I concluded that this was probably the original Poltergeist. Am I deluded? Mar 22, 2010