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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: see guidebook
Page Views: 1,299 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tom Myers on Jul 31, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is just left of center of the P-wall face. It is defined by a distinctively jagged undercling area where the rock bulges out, about one third of the way to the top. Above this formation there is a flake with a distinct right facing dihedral(corner). The route follows the corner and good pro is found there. There are optional starts but as good as any is straight down from where the undercling originates on its left side(this is the same start as for "Root Canal"). Aim for the left side of the undercling, passing one bolt and some possible tricam placements. This area is not difficult but has sketchy pro. At the undercling pro is great for protecting the crux. From the left edge do an undercling traverse right 5-6 ft(wild and showy). Look for spot where some jugs are almost within reach, you should still be to the left of the flake above. After pulling up and sl. left over the bulge you are ready to make a balancy move to the right, around the corner into the dihedral. From the top of the dihedral link up with the "cave to P" route or follow bolts straight up which are a part of "Root Canal". In either case you skirt a large left facing flake at the top. Bolt anchors can be found at the top.

Protection

There are bolts for start and finish of this climb. Central area requires 1.0 tricam (for shallow crack) and several cams 1-2.5 inches.

[ed. note: 1/04 - 3, ¼” bolts w/Leeper Hangers removed and replaced w/1, ½” bolt at bolt #1 and 2, 3/8” bolts at bolts #2 and #3.]

Photos

Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.9 PG13
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.9 PG13
There are three bolts below the roof. You can clip the first from the top of the pedestal. The way I finish (don't really know the correct way but this makes sense), after the roof and corner, is to go straight up and clip 3 more bolts to arrive at a 2 bolt chain anchor that can reach the pedestal with a 60 and the ground with a 70.

I think this is one of the better routes in the area. Multiple tricky sequences and the roof traverse is sweet. Underclinging a handcrack. Almost like climbing on good rock! Pulling the roof takes a good read to get the round, obvious jug and is a pretty sweet sequence. After the roof is one (of a few) spots where it can get kinda scary though. Being BP it's a pretty adventurous route, but doable and worth it. Feb 18, 2013
Slater  
RE: Route Canal - When I put the first bolt in, it was the only bolt below the roof on the route. There is a pedestal start for Hanging Teeth (where the other two bolts are), but the bolts serve more as an anchor than as protection. The picture makes them look spread out and like the lower section is well protected. IT IS NOT. You get a bolt about 20' off the deck from the tree (where the FA started) and you can get some marginal gear in two more places below the roof, but that is it. My friend Dave blew the crux, his cam in the roof blew, and he just about decked, broke ribs. Not for the faint at heart. Feb 13, 2006
There has been a "belay bolt" on top of the pedastel for a very long time.I remember it from the 70's. I like to belay from there, not from the ground. Mar 20, 2005
Slater  
John, the Route Canal topo shows 7 bolts, three of which are below the roof flake. When I did this route last there was only 1 bolt below the roof flake. Is this a topo error or did the bolts completely get rearranged? Also, there should only be 6 bolts, unless one has been added. Mar 18, 2005