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Madison Square Garden

5.6, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 19 votes
FA: Pete and Karl Gulyash 2-82, on site, on lead.
California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Garden Wall

Description

Madison Square Garden is probably the best route on Garden Wall. MSG clocks in at a burly 5.6 and sports 3 or 4 bolts depending on how you climb the route. Head straight up to the small "overhang" about 25' up then work your way under it to the right. Clip all the bolts you run across. You can also go straight up over the small overhang for a variation called Look Ma, No Hands (5.6/5.7). Once you set up an anchor, top rope your own variations. Some nice views, no crowds, and a great place for beginners and beginning leaders.

Protection

Three or four draws and slings to set up the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Garden Wall is all about low angle slab climbing.  A great place to hone your friction skills before leading on Shadow Wall.  Try the classic Madison Square Garden (5.6) or the variation Look Ma, No Hands (5.6/5.7).  You can also try the very weedy, Garden o' Weedin' (5.6), or Woofs of a Wandering St. Bernard (5.8).  A great spot for beginners & beginning leaders.
[Hide Photo] Garden Wall is all about low angle slab climbing. A great place to hone your friction skills before leading on Shadow Wall. Try the classic Madison Square Garden (5.6) or the variation Look Ma, N…
Crimping his way up
[Hide Photo] Crimping his way up
good friction in the fog
[Hide Photo] good friction in the fog
Aaron Formello floating on the sharp end
[Hide Photo] Aaron Formello floating on the sharp end

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Floyd Hayes
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I thought the crux was a tricky move above the second bolt, harder than what I expected for a 5.6, and just as hard as Look Ma No Hands. Jun 1, 2010
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] Seems like the key hold for getting to the 2nd or 3rd bolt was wet (can't remember if it was the 2nd or 3rd bolt, it was the one above and left of the nice and juggy obvious upward-right slanting seam), and seemed like a tough move, so I skipped it and went right (easier, but runout). I wouldn't recommend this route to a beginning leader, but the climbing was fun. On a cold humid day after recent rains, the slab felt pretty slippery (even though dry), sufficient enough to scare a novice leader who doesn't like runout. Feb 25, 2011
Nick Tripp
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] "Good for beginner leaders" doesn't always overlap with "easy climbing" - these slabs are runout and you'd bounce down them awkwardly if you slipped off. I would personally not recommend this or adjacent climbs as a first lead Oct 25, 2020