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Routes in Doom Wall

ADK 9 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
BFG 9000 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death Match S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shores of Hell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slough of Despair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Shotgun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tower of the Damned S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Kath Lasky, Hans Florine '95
Page Views: 376 total, 2/month
Shared By: Schiffhauer on May 15, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the second route from the right. It's pretty straight forward climbing up cobbles and other pieces of rock. The crux is between the second and third bolt, after which the angle decreases and the holds get bigger. It seemed a little cruxy just before the anchors, as your pulling on little pieces of rock that don't look like they're going to be there much longer.....but then what on this wall does. The Edward's guide states that the route "kept getting harder, then got easier, so who knows how you'll find it," but it's a fun short route none the less.

Protection

It seems the ground has risen, as the start is in a streambed, so you can actually clip the first bolt just standing there....if you want to use it. The second bolt is only about 3 feet higher. Also, the second bolt is a spinner. The bolt seems solid, but I think the sandstone has worn underneath the hanger making it spin. Two open shuts await you at the top.

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Phil Requist
  5.10b
Phil Requist  
  5.10b
This route has been cleaned up and rebolted. 5.10b is again an accurate rating, I think. Oct 24, 2016
Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
Harder than 10b. Pushing 10+ now. Looks like a lot of holds have popped out. Clipping bolt 3 was the crux for me. Apr 21, 2015
j moore
Santa Maria
j moore   Santa Maria
definitley, probably, surely, harder than 10b. id give it a 10 c/d a big ledge broke where you used to hang out while clipping 3rd bolt. Oct 27, 2012