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Routes in Garden Wall

Doggie Style S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Garden 'O' Weedin' T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Look Ma, No Hands S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Madison Square Garden S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mountaineers Route T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Woofs of a Wandering St. Bernard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Joe Potter and Ryan Bello
Page Views: 534 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nick Fitton on Apr 17, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The first bolt is 25' off the deck under the small right-facing corner in the middle of the wall. It is not more than 5.3 up to that bolt. Go straight over the corner or even left of it - this is the crux move. Ignore the diagonal right sloping ledge out of the corner.

Protection

a handful of draws

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.7 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7 PG13
I led it again. I thought the crux 5.7 comprised a few moves well above the second bolt, where a fall would be painful. At the fourth bolt it is easiest to go right and clip a fifth bolt before heading left to the anchor; alternatively you can lead directly over the fourth bolt to the anchor, which felt like 5.8. Jun 1, 2010
Floyd Hayes
  5.7 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7 PG13
Probably no harder than 5.0 to the first bolt, but above the climbing was better than I expected. I came across 5 bolts before reaching the anchor. There are now two bolt anchors at the top--the left anchor (original route) is much easier to reach than the right anchor. I went to the right anchor, which required a tricky move that felt like at least 5.8, maybe harder. Mar 22, 2010
Nick Fitton
  5.7
Nick Fitton  
  5.7
This was my first 5.7 lead but it seemed kind've easy 5.7. Watch your rope length, you need a full 165' to rap it. Lots of posion oak to scramble through to get to the base. Apr 18, 2004