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Routes in Rock Land

Chimney Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Sweep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fly, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kermit Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One Bolt TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Potato Head TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Secret of Foo TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Aside TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tan Streak TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Corner 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,330 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jody Langford on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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24 Opinions

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Description

A fun, part crack, part stemming climb. Go up to the back of the cleft in the rock and climb staright up.

Protection

Small to 4"

Photos

Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.8+
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.8+
Unique climbing style for the Central Coast. Perhaps that is why it felt like 5.9 on lead, but is probably 5.8ish. Both the climbing and gear feel insecure but the gear is actually quite good and placement opportunities are abundant (every 3 feet or less). I found a small peanut to be useful and a red tricam does the trick for that cubic pocket about midway up. Oct 21, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.9
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9
After previewing it on rappel, the pro looked good so I led it and felt secure, zipping it up with six cams, all of which I trusted to hold at least a short fall. However, as a lead it felt like 5.9. Mar 22, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I hesitate to give this a PG rating since it is only about 25' long; however, pro is somewhat marginal towards the top of the route so a lead fall *could* result in a ground fall. Just a heads-up if you're thinking of leading it. Jan 28, 2005