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Crespi Critter

5.6, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2 from 25 votes
FA: unknown, refer to Slater
California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Cabrillo Peak > Park Ridge Rock

Description

This route follows the crack up the center of Park Ridge Rock. There is quite some friction on the rope but otherwise it's a nice climb.

Note: There are two loose rocks (10-30 lb) in the crack about 10 feet up. Do not place gear here!

Protection

There is a brand new anchor at the top (thank you John Knight!) The word is pro: small to 1.5"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.
[Hide Photo] Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.
Zachary Moore about to get scrappy with the chimney
[Hide Photo] Zachary Moore about to get scrappy with the chimney
Crespi Critter
[Hide Photo] Crespi Critter
Kristi leading on small gear
[Hide Photo] Kristi leading on small gear

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This a great route to do on lead. It goes on all natural gear and there are more placements than you might initially think - I pretty much had the thing sewn up with everything from the smallest micro wire to a number four Camalot. It is thoughtful and interesting climbing requiring stemming and delicate balance moves. Once you make the first ledge, either belay at the three bolt anchor, or continue up the corner and belay, or best of all three options, step to the left and head up the thin crack in order to keep it interesting all the way to the top! Feb 9, 2004
Sean Sullivan
Fresno, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Great lead. Otherwise ok. Bring small stiff for the bottom. Jun 27, 2019