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Boobalicious

5.10c, Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 18 votes
FA: Pablo Paster, 2/15/04
California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Cabrillo Peak > Park Ridge Rock

Description

Boobalicious follows the humpy arete to the left of Crespi Criter. There is a funky move around one of the lower humps and holds are sparse and tiny. There is a variation that goes to the right a bit at the first hump and follows the face between Boobalicious and Crespi Critter, the working name is "Fond Mammaries" (5.10a, Kevin Knight, 2/15/04).

Protection

There is a good anchor at the top of the route (The "The Slot" anchor) as well as a new anchor at the top (The anchor for Crespi Critter). Trad leading is not recommended for lack of placements.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.
[Hide Photo] Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.
showing equalization / angle of pull
[Hide Photo] showing equalization / angle of pull
It's a hard slap to top out the boob. Tom Hall gets it done.
[Hide Photo] It's a hard slap to top out the boob. Tom Hall gets it done.
Added rap rings 11/28/20. 5/16" quicklinks and 5/16" chain links. 3/8" chain links for rap rings. Everything is grade 316 SS (marine grade) <br> Note the bolts are all grade 304 SS.
[Hide Photo] Added rap rings 11/28/20. 5/16" quicklinks and 5/16" chain links. 3/8" chain links for rap rings. Everything is grade 316 SS (marine grade) Note the bolts are all grade 304 SS.
Boobalicious
[Hide Photo] Boobalicious

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stephen Pratt
Goleta, CA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This was a pretty cool route. Trickier than I thought. I love the name. Mar 27, 2004
vincent L.
Redwood City
[Hide Comment] The route pictured here is not 5.9+. It doesn't really help anyone to sandbag it. It is bolted for lead now with three solid bolts. It's very safe and in my opinion it goes at at least 10b .

It is a very worthwhile route on flawless white rock. Feb 17, 2008
Matthew Geyer
[Hide Comment] This is a 3-bolt sport route that is fairly vertical and is a good, safe route to fall on for those looking to try leading a stiff .10 Oct 30, 2008
John Knight
Sedona
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] HISTORICAL NOTE - I climbed with Kevin Knight (no relation) and Pablo Paster back in 2004 when they thought they did the top rope FA of this route (and posted it on Mt. Project). This was previously top roped and called Lumpy Lumps but was "re-named" on Mt. Project by Kevin & Pablo in 2005.

Regarding the grade, I think this route is closer to 5.10c than it is to 5.9. I usually don't struggle with 5.10b much less 5.9 and I had a hard time with it. There is an interesting posting on RockClimbing.com from someone that claims to have put in the bolts in Sept. 2005 and done the first (free) ascent and rated it 5.10d. They called it "Fear and Loathing".

Unless I hear claims to the contrary, I am saying it's 5.10c. As for the name, I'm fond of Boobalicious. It just sounds way better than Lumpy Lumps or Fear and Loathing.

john Aug 2, 2011