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Routes in Park Ridge Rock

Boobalicious TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crespi Critter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy up T,S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Dawn TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Pablo Paster, 2/15/04
Page Views: 1,159 total, 7/month
Shared By: Pablo Paster on Feb 14, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Boobalicious follows the humpy arete to the left of Crespi Criter. There is a funky move around one of the lower humps and holds are sparse and tiny. There is a variation that goes to the right a bit at the first hump and follows the face between Boobalicious and Crespi Critter, the working name is "Fond Mammaries" (5.10a, Kevin Knight, 2/15/04).

Protection

There is a good anchor at the top of the route (The "The Slot" anchor) as well as a new anchor at the top (The anchor for Crespi Critter). Trad leading is not recommended for lack of placements.

Photos

Tbotz  
I put those bolts in when I was 13 years old and practicing bolting from hooks instead of doing math homework...14 years later and I've since put up big wall first ascents around the world. And now live in Alaska where I'm still pursuing the art of first ascenting Alpine big wall free routes. I personally have not a care in the world what you guys care to call this insignificant three bolt chossline... the "TR first ascent" comment really gave me a good laugh though... haha. Be safe, have fun out there fellas. Nov 30, 2016
John Knight
  5.10c
John Knight  
  5.10c
HISTORICAL NOTE - I climbed with Kevin Knight (no relation) and Pablo Paster back in 2004 when they thought they did the top rope FA of this route (and posted it on Mt. Project). This was previously top roped and called Lumpy Lumps but was "re-named" on Mt. Project by Kevin & Pablo in 2005.

Regarding the grade, I think this route is closer to 5.10c than it is to 5.9. I usually don't struggle with 5.10b much less 5.9 and I had a hard time with it. There is an interesting posting on RockClimbing.com from someone that claims to have put in the bolts in Sept. 2005 and done the first (free) ascent and rated it 5.10d. They called it "Fear and Loathing".

Unless I hear claims to the contrary, I am saying it's 5.10c. As for the name, I'm fond of Boobalicious. It just sounds way better than Lumpy Lumps or Fear and Loathing.

john Aug 2, 2011
This is a 3-bolt sport route that is fairly vertical and is a good, safe route to fall on for those looking to try leading a stiff .10 Oct 30, 2008
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
The route pictured here is not 5.9+. It doesn't really help anyone to sandbag it. It is bolted for lead now with three solid bolts. It's very safe and in my opinion it goes at at least 10b .

It is a very worthwhile route on flawless white rock. Feb 17, 2008
Stephen Pratt
Goleta, CA
  5.9+
Stephen Pratt   Goleta, CA
  5.9+
This was a pretty cool route. Trickier than I thought. I love the name. Mar 27, 2004