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Boobalicious [Edit]
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.2 from 9
votes
Routes in Park Ridge Rock
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Boobalicious TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crespi Critter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Easy up T,S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Red Dawn TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slot, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | TR, 30 ft |
| FA: | Pablo Paster, 2/15/04 |
| Page Views: | 1,260 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Pablo Paster on Feb 14, 2004 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description [Edit]
Boobalicious follows the humpy arete to the left of Crespi Criter. There is a funky move around one of the lower humps and holds are sparse and tiny. There is a variation that goes to the right a bit at the first hump and follows the face between Boobalicious and Crespi Critter, the working name is "Fond Mammaries" (5.10a, Kevin Knight, 2/15/04).
Protection [Edit]
There is a good anchor at the top of the route (The "The Slot" anchor) as well as a new anchor at the top (The anchor for Crespi Critter). Trad leading is not recommended for lack of placements.
Goleta, CA
Redwood City
It is a very worthwhile route on flawless white rock. Feb 17, 2008
Regarding the grade, I think this route is closer to 5.10c than it is to 5.9. I usually don't struggle with 5.10b much less 5.9 and I had a hard time with it. There is an interesting posting on RockClimbing.com from someone that claims to have put in the bolts in Sept. 2005 and done the first (free) ascent and rated it 5.10d. They called it "Fear and Loathing".
Unless I hear claims to the contrary, I am saying it's 5.10c. As for the name, I'm fond of Boobalicious. It just sounds way better than Lumpy Lumps or Fear and Loathing.
john Aug 2, 2011