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All Locations > California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Cabrillo Peak > Park Ridge Rock

Boobalicious

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British


 Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes

Routes in Park Ridge Rock

Boobalicious TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crespi Critter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy up T,S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Dawn TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Pablo Paster, 2/15/04
Page Views: 1,353 total · 8/month
Shared By: Pablo Paster on Feb 14, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Boobalicious follows the humpy arete to the left of Crespi Criter. There is a funky move around one of the lower humps and holds are sparse and tiny. There is a variation that goes to the right a bit at the first hump and follows the face between Boobalicious and Crespi Critter, the working name is "Fond Mammaries" (5.10a, Kevin Knight, 2/15/04).

Protection

There is a good anchor at the top of the route (The "The Slot" anchor) as well as a new anchor at the top (The anchor for Crespi Critter). Trad leading is not recommended for lack of placements.

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Photos

It's a hard slap to top out the boob. Tom Hall gets it done.
It's a hard slap to top out the boob. Tom Hall…
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Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.
Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.
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Boobalicious
Boobalicious
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5 Comments

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Stephen Pratt
Goleta, CA
  5.9+
Stephen Pratt   Goleta, CA
  5.9+
This was a pretty cool route. Trickier than I thought. I love the name. Mar 27, 2004
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
The route pictured here is not 5.9+. It doesn't really help anyone to sandbag it. It is bolted for lead now with three solid bolts. It's very safe and in my opinion it goes at at least 10b .

It is a very worthwhile route on flawless white rock. Feb 17, 2008
Matthew Geyer
Matthew Geyer  
This is a 3-bolt sport route that is fairly vertical and is a good, safe route to fall on for those looking to try leading a stiff .10 Oct 30, 2008
John Knight
  5.10c
John Knight  
  5.10c
HISTORICAL NOTE - I climbed with Kevin Knight (no relation) and Pablo Paster back in 2004 when they thought they did the top rope FA of this route (and posted it on Mt. Project). This was previously top roped and called Lumpy Lumps but was "re-named" on Mt. Project by Kevin & Pablo in 2005.

Regarding the grade, I think this route is closer to 5.10c than it is to 5.9. I usually don't struggle with 5.10b much less 5.9 and I had a hard time with it. There is an interesting posting on RockClimbing.com from someone that claims to have put in the bolts in Sept. 2005 and done the first (free) ascent and rated it 5.10d. They called it "Fear and Loathing".

Unless I hear claims to the contrary, I am saying it's 5.10c. As for the name, I'm fond of Boobalicious. It just sounds way better than Lumpy Lumps or Fear and Loathing.

john Aug 2, 2011
Tbotz
Tbotz  
I put those bolts in when I was 13 years old and practicing bolting from hooks instead of doing math homework...14 years later and I've since put up big wall first ascents around the world. And now live in Alaska where I'm still pursuing the art of first ascenting Alpine big wall free routes. I personally have not a care in the world what you guys care to call this insignificant three bolt chossline... the "TR first ascent" comment really gave me a good laugh though... haha. Be safe, have fun out there fellas. Nov 30, 2016

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