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Routes in El Dorado

Black Gold S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Brown Smoothies TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghost Upstairs, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kindergeist T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nuggets S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Olas Negras S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Poltergeist TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Tom Slater (TR) - 1994
Page Views: 148 total, 1/month
Shared By: John Knight on Feb 14, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A series of easy mantles up to a two bolt anchor. A great beginner climb, especially if Rock Land is crowded. It can be led with one cam, but it would be a bit runout. The rating is 5.5, but if you're tall, I think you might give it a 5.4. Anyway, it's easy and fun. Give it a try!

Protection

Top Rope, Free Solo or maybe fiddle in a bit of gear. Two bolt anchor on top.

Photos

Bryan Carroll
Los Osos, CA
 
Bryan Carroll   Los Osos, CA
 
Floyd is there a name that goes with this 5.8 you are talking about? Apr 16, 2010
Floyd Hayes
  5.5
Floyd Hayes  
  5.5
Very easy and boring. A more challenging top-rope variation, 5.8 or so, ascends the face a few feet to the right. Mar 22, 2010
John, nevermind. You did do it. And yes, the topo line is off. It goes up the black steak and over the tiny roof. And I agree, don't bolt it. We left it the way it was for a reason. It was a conscious choice.

Along the same line, Tips Ahoy at Park Ridge can be lead with .5" gear and smaller. The line of 3 bolts actually goes about two feet left of the line. You DON'T need the bolts. It is way more fun to lead with natural gear.

Question: Does Boobalicious stick to the lumpy buttress all the way to the top? Apr 15, 2005
Slater  
John D, you didn't do Ghost Upstairs if you didn't go over a small roof/horizontal crack. I suspect you went up Poltergeist just to the left of it. There are top anchors visible from the ground. You can't (or couldn't) see Ghost Upstairs' anchors from the ground. Apr 15, 2005
This climb is only about 30' high at the most; short but enjoyable.

We found five clean gear placements: a medium nut, a blue TCU, a yellow Alien, and two tied-off slings.

When we climbed it, we went up through a series of ledges that are water stained gray-black. To our eye, the climb (and bolts) are about 8 feet right of where the line is drawn in the photo.

If you don't want to lead it, you can hike up to the TR anchors from around the right along a rocky ramp. Maybe a third class move or two.

A note to would-be bolters: please don't drill any "lead" bolts on this route, there is plenty of clean protection.

Apr 12, 2005