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Routes in Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles (aka Orange Rocks)

Gold Rush/High Noon S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12b S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mid-Life Crisis S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poker TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: FTR Mark Jolliff & Ed Keefe, 1990. FFA Pete Gulyash & Ed Keefe, 1990.
Page Views: 2,491 total · 15/month
Shared By: John Knight on Feb 13, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Gold Rush is the easiest climb to access at GWP. It's right next to the trail and you won't have to fight the poison oak to get there. This route features solid rock with small edges and smears. The rock is rough and features friction like Joshua Tree. The southwestern exposure makes this a good choice for a cool day. You can also cruise around to the left and set up a top rope in a matter of minutes. To top it all off, the views from here are supreme.

Protection

3 Draws is all you need! Don't forget a couple slings for the anchor.

Photos

Justin Fontecchio
San Luis Obispo, California
Justin Fontecchio   San Luis Obispo, California
maybe 3 dumb questions here and well see if they can be answered. was this "loose" flake everyone is mentioning glued?? because i dont feel this flake is loose anymore at all. and also...what is it with this "weenie" variation.....perhaps rephrasing is due...because i dont feel it necessary to call either direction more macho or weenie as stated by many and in the guidebook as well? and is gold rush a different climb than high noon? because if there is only ONE climb on this pinnacle and everyones saying such grade difference between the left start and the direct, it just had me questioning the name. and maybe if there should be a route added???? the left arete will go if someone tries at it hard enough. LOVE the route though. it was my first lead about 4 years ago and ill always keep comin back to it....im actually staring at the WWPs from my window right now:) Jan 23, 2014
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
The old Tucker/Steele guidebook has this listed as 10d, citing a "variation" above and right of the first bolt. Done this way, it's certainly 10c/d, which might account for the difference in ratings. Jun 14, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Mark Jolliff (FTR) now lives in Joshua Tree where he works as a rock guide.

uprising.com/guides.htm Feb 5, 2006
Jeshua Borges
  5.10b
Jeshua Borges  
  5.10b
Great Climb!! This is currently my favorite on BP.

The first bolt looks like it might need to be inspected closer. Fall on the first mantle can be pretty rough and there is definate deck out potential. Mar 14, 2005
Nick Haupt
  5.10c
Nick Haupt  
  5.10c
Man do i wish this thing was twice as long as it is. great route with fun reaches between small incuts at the end. Dec 27, 2004
Jon Hanlon
SLO
 
Jon Hanlon   SLO
 
Very nice climb. Take care with the loose flake... Mar 1, 2004
Bob Hill
  5.10c
Bob Hill  
  5.10c
I agree with Scott's comments - it may be a bit stiffer than 10b if you take the direct start to the right of the first bolt. I took the weeny variation and went left where it is easier using a big flake as both a hand and foot hold; however, this flake is extremely loose and exhibited some movement when I yarded on it last Saturday! Also, once you've gained the initial ledge between the first and second bolt, you can get in a small cam with a long runner to protect the traverse over to clipping the second bolt. The moves aren't hard, but it's a little awkward and the deck potential is bona fide. In the final appraisal, this is a great route in a fantastic location. I, for one, also believe that restoration activities in this area would be very appropriate given the impacts to vegetation that have occurred. Rock climbers need to exhibit a strong land stewardship ethic if we expect to continue be in the good graces of the land managers. Feb 17, 2004
Scott Bullock
  5.10c
Scott Bullock  
  5.10c
Great route. A direct start right of the first bolt raises the grade a letter. That bolt needs to be replaced John... Ken... Be careful leading above the the first bolt. It's class 4 for about 20 feet without pro. If you fall making the second clip you will hit the deck. Feb 16, 2004

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