Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles (aka Orange Rocks)

Gold Rush/High Noon S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12b S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mid-Life Crisis S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poker TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Scott Bullock, Ken Klis, Matt Greiger 2004
Page Views: 860 total, 5/month
Shared By: Scott Bullock on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Your "mid-life crisis" begins down in the Poison Oak infested gully below Pete's 5.12. Use the aid bolt on the left for decent and security. Start on a small slab reaching for a good ledge and the first bolt. An easy crank prepares you for clip two. An awkward mantle under a roof is the crux. Take your time its all balance and the holds are there. Cruise up the pinnacle to the last bolt and anchors and don't miss the views!

Protection

4 new bolts two bolt anchor with rap rings

Photos

Nick Fuller
San Jose, CA
  5.10a
Nick Fuller   San Jose, CA
  5.10a
Had climbed High Noon and Pete's .12a, but hadn't checked out the right side of WWWP. My buddy had the guidebook and tossed me the rope to warm up on this "5.8 cruiser." Quite a prank, had me thinking I was losing it. Awesome short climb though, and fun moves pulling the little roof. Feb 13, 2015
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
I got poison oak over my whole entire body after climbing this. I am itching as I type. It was a pretty fun route though. Feb 3, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a
We avoided most of the poison oak while approaching from the bottom. However, the best way to avoid it is rapping down from above after approaching through the old quarry. Strands of poison oak are dangling just left of the first bolt--I got poked in the eye and brushed with my left arm while leading. I washed myself well with water after lowering and never got a rash. One of my two climbing partners got a rash on her hands. Nov 28, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.10a
3 out of 4 stars for quality, but the the inevitable poison oak will make me think twice before repeating this one. Jan 26, 2006
vincent lopez
  5.9+
vincent lopez  
  5.9+
Saaweet short little route !! yes it is only about 35 feet high but you get super steep jug hauling on bomber rock with a beautiful top out . well bolted and safe to. the 30 second approach does suck because you have to step on plants and it is a little technical but worth it all in all ..... Sep 18, 2005
John Knight
  5.9+
John Knight  
  5.9+
Bob Hill, Jon Hanlon & I climbed Mid Life Crisis today. I think we all concur, that this is a really great route. The pulls over the overhangs are mentally challenging but there are good feet and hands when you need them. The clips are well placed & easy to reach for an average (5'10ish) person. It's still a bit crumbly in spots and has a few loose flakes (I pulled on one & fell when it ripped). However, after a few more people climb it, I think it will be a classic. If you're not up to a lead, it's relatively easy to set up a top rope by working your way around to the left of the higher pinnacle. Wear long pants & watch the poison oak. One last thing, the views are awesome! Feb 28, 2004