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Routes in Old Stone Face

Brain Surgery T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nasal Drip T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Not known
Page Views: 1,358 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bob Hill on Feb 8, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

If you're like me, attempting a route that features awkward, flaring 5.11 moves protected by thin, tricky gear is not really at the top of your list of things to do. But the Old Stone Face is such a beautiful formation in a truly amazing setting. So what to do? Well, I tried aiding this route a few weeks ago and found it to be an excellent adventure. The first twenty feet where the 5.11 moves are found can be aided cleanly on aliens and small wires. Offest aliens would really do the job, if you've got some. Then, step out of the aiders and feast upon a sinker hand crack before hitting the next crux - a bulging roof. Grab the point of aid on the only bolt on the route, commit to the face move above it, and continue on to a surprise finish!

Protection

Double rack of cams from micro Aliens to #3 Camalot size.

Photos

Pretty sure this is the route I did back in '94, the same year Tom Slater and I did Route Canal. From what I remember it faces directly down hill and starts at a flared traverse/overhang crack and then up to a single bolt just a bit higher. Must have been a pretty good stance as the bolt was placed on lead. Lots of interesting climbing above the bolt. Led it with a soloist. Nice climb and beautiful views. Jun 13, 2014
Adam D
Los Osos, CA
Adam D   Los Osos, CA
Lots of Poison Oak around the anchors for this climb, just about impossible to avoid. Sep 3, 2009