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The Talking Tower

5.9, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
FA: Slater, Podhorsky
California > Central Coast > Wagon Caves > Talking Tower

Description

This route packs a lot of fun into its short length, and is worth the small hike over to the Spire Area. It starts out with sidepulls and opposition up a dike feature and moves into fantastic hueco climbing and a short traverse up to the anchor. I was surprised by its steepness, which elicits a pump.

There is a larger gap between the last bolt (3) and the anchor, but hang in there and find that good hug to clip the anchor from! The two bolt anchor has one regular hanger and the other is a double hanger that you can lower from. I added a small bailer quick-link to the other bolt so that you can lower off of two bolts rather than a single bolt.

Protection

3 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The pink rope shows the line of Talking Tower.
[Hide Photo] The pink rope shows the line of Talking Tower.
The cubbie hole hueco with shelves for your figurines.
[Hide Photo] The cubbie hole hueco with shelves for your figurines.
The push to the summit looks pretty grim. #R+
[Hide Photo] The push to the summit looks pretty grim. #R+
The anchor has a doubled hanger on the left bolt that you can lower off of. The clipping stance is to the right. A quicklink was added to the right bolt to allow for a solid 2 bolt lower-off.
[Hide Photo] The anchor has a doubled hanger on the left bolt that you can lower off of. The clipping stance is to the right. A quicklink was added to the right bolt to allow for a solid 2 bolt lower-off.
Wendy-bee standing in front of the best "5.8" at the Wagon Caves.
[Hide Photo] Wendy-bee standing in front of the best "5.8" at the Wagon Caves.
Pete standing tall in front of his first lead.
[Hide Photo] Pete standing tall in front of his first lead.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Formella
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This route packs a lot of fun into it's short length, and is worth the small hike over to the Spire Area. It starts out with sidepulls and opposition up a dike feature and moves into fantastic hueco climbing and a short traverse up to the anchor. I was surprised by its steepness, which elicits a pump. There is a larger gap between the last bolt (3) and the anchor, but hang in there and find that good hug to clip the anchor from! The two bolt anchor has one regular hanger and the other is a double hanger that you can lower from. I added a small bailer quick-link to the other bolt so that you can lower off of two bolts rather than a single bolt. Nov 28, 2015