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Lieback Corner

5.7, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 125 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Waterfall Cliff
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Description

Really fun trad or top rope route. Difficuly not overwhelming for the novice leader despite moderately strenuous start. Route eats up medium to large pieces lower down with great lieback hands. Balancey footwork needed to top out.

Protection

Medium to large hexes or cams (1"-3") work nicely, as well as a few medium to large stoppers. Two bolt belay anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Doug leading up Lieback Corner, well in command.  Tricky move to surmount the dihedral a little further on requires some fine foot balance.
[Hide Photo] Doug leading up Lieback Corner, well in command. Tricky move to surmount the dihedral a little further on requires some fine foot balance.
Doug Fields leading lower section.  Great crack for hands make for solid liebacking.  Small stoppers down low and medium to large cams and hexes higher up.
[Hide Photo] Doug Fields leading lower section. Great crack for hands make for solid liebacking. Small stoppers down low and medium to large cams and hexes higher up.
shot 2/12/22
[Hide Photo] shot 2/12/22
Looking up Lieback Corner
[Hide Photo] Looking up Lieback Corner
Liza Butler, of Sausalito, on the super-fun lieback route...make that Charlie Solo (see below)
[Hide Photo] Liza Butler, of Sausalito, on the super-fun lieback route...make that Charlie Solo (see below)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] It's OK. Sep 12, 2006
Constantine Krotcov
Santa Cruz, CA
[Hide Comment] Super loose up on top, if setting up TR move all the big rock or they will slide down. Aug 27, 2009
Brian Snider
NorCal
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route with a great 5.8 slab variation to the left off the same anchors. Jun 20, 2011
presto
Prescott, AZ
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Easy 5.7, maybe 5.6, but fun climbing. Two tricams and and two scld's were all i used. brown tricam and a sling around a feature at the top for an anchor that was actually in-line with the climb to belay a second. Bolts to the left are awkward and off route.

Great for beginners to practice placements Mar 15, 2012
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Currently no two bolt anchor above this climb. Borrowing the anchor from Clamydia will risk a big pendulum from the top.

Build a good enough anchor using gear and trees directly back from the top of the climb. Jan 14, 2013
[Hide Comment] Is there a walkoff or rappel for this route? May 5, 2014
Daniel Wade
Oakland, CA.
[Hide Comment] There are anchors on top. The two bolt 10a finish variation (Degeneration) to the right is great. May 26, 2014
Tyler Conklin
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Just to clarify, Daniel Wade (in the previous comment) is mixing up this route with 'Degeneration' which starts in a 5.6 dihedral and finishes either left (Easy) up a gully, or right up the two bolt slab face that makes it 10a Degeneration. So it is still unclear whether there are bolts on the top or not. This route is much farther to the left (If you are looking from the bottom of the falls) than Degeneration. Oct 12, 2015
[Hide Comment] Took a climber new to trad on this route on 7/4. He walked-in a gold DMM cam on the first placement. Couldn't retrieve it. If anyone could, please let me know. It has TD stamped on it. Thanks. Sentimental value. sdlo@ucsc.edu Aug 4, 2017
ToDoubleD Whitney
Aptos, CA
 
[Hide Comment] There is a two bolt anchor at the top of this climb. No rap chains, but it's easy enough to walk off, or you could leave an anchor, rap down, and retrieve it after topping out on Degeneration or another climb. Jan 22, 2018
Corey Siegel
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Lots of trees up top for a secondary anchor or static line. We found it a bit tricky to find the right route. If you find the 3 bolts at the top of Clamydia, then the 2 bolts at the top of this route are on the next section to climber's left. Feb 10, 2018
[Hide Comment] Pretty clean line from the corner down at the ground to the two-bolt anchor looking straight along the corner. It's low-angle with good hands and clean foot smears all the way up - a great intro to liebacking. If toproping with newbies, a directional maybe a third of the way up (#4 cam in the big crack) avoids a big swing if they fall near the start. Finish with fun slab moves middle or left, or take the easier corner to the right. May 20, 2018
Jacob Kantor
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] Is this the same climb as Degeneration (left)? May 27, 2018
George Labaria
Santa Cruz, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This climb is somehow mistaken by a lot of people for Degeneration (5.9, the right-most climb when facing the waterfall cliffs) or Charlie Solo (5.6, the corner-crack system closest to the waterfall on the left). This climb is the second corner-crack system from the left, when facing the waterfall cliffs. From left-to-right, it goes Charlie Solo (5.6, closest to the waterfall), Lieback Corner (this route), and then Degeneration / Degeneration Left variant as far as corner-cracks go in this crag. There is definitely a two-bolt anchor at the top with quick-links. The left-bolt/hanger looks a bit rusty but is likely solid. Possible lose flake at the top on the main face where the lieback portion ends, but looks fairly solid for now. Dec 19, 2018
John Allard
San Francisco, CA
5.6
[Hide Comment] Two bolt anchors up top as of the date of this comment. Fun little crack climb, nothing really difficult but fun nonetheless. 5.6 or maybe 5.7- May 13, 2019
Julian Frank
South Lake Tahoe, CA
[Hide Comment] Warning that if you top rope/head for the anchor bolts to the left hand finish of the climb, there is a very large flake that you use that feels like it’s days are numbered. Final flake before the move to the anchors. If this broke it could def kill somebody down below. It’s possible to mantle the flake without putting pressure on it, but if there are folks around I would recommend heading straight up and finishing the dihedral into anchoring in the trees to avoid the flake. Apr 6, 2021
Monty Worth
San Francisco
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] The first part of this is fine and good for leading practice, but then you reach a roof. I saw a topo saying to go right, but that was completely dirty and loose with no pro or bolts. So I went left close to Greeboo. At the top you have to either build an anchor with the dead tree (which will come down one of these days) or go further to the left and use the anchor for Greeboo which could cause a big swing if someone came off. Jul 2, 2021
Wren Cooperrider
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The previous comment from Monty is referring to Charlie Solo which is a bit to the left; there's no roof and no dead tree on this route. See George's comment about the cracks at the waterfall...
The bolts on the left are just fine for this route, but pulling your rope through there currently makes a lot of twists, so if anyone is planning to go out there anytime soon and feels like adding a pair of rap rings to the links, that would be nice for everyone's ropes. Feb 19, 2023