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Blue Zenith
5.9+,
Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 53
votes
FA: Johnston, Bilotti 05/1990
California
> San Francisco B…
> E Bay Area
> Mt Diablo SP
> Pine Canyon
> Pagoda Rock
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon and the Wanna Get Away areas are closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is
linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This fun steep face can be found on the Pagoda's west face starting at the hills highest point. Just up from the Pillar route. Dicey moves start the climbing out and mellow in the mid section finishing with some excellent rock to the left summit of the Pagoda. A walk off is made fairly easily to the east via a cave system into the Bay Trees to the gully between Rock of Ages and the Pagoda. Enjoy!
Protection
7 bolts lead up the face with some movement from left to right and back so a few full length runners would be very helpful. There is no fixed anchor at the top but a small hole in the arete above the finish can be slung to top rope or use as an achor when finished.
[Hide Photo] View down from the belay at the top top (shared with dry December) along the ridge/ arête and down to the ledge...easy climbing and a pillar to sling for protection on the way to the too
[Hide Photo] Blue Zenith from the base. As for the Topo - the blue rope shows it.
[Hide Photo] View down Blue Zenith from the anchors at the to of Dry December -Looking down the runout 4th class ridge
[Hide Photo] Approaching the top of Blue Zenith. Sweet run up the final ridge. That's Rock of Ages (and The Cave of the Cave Route in the background)
Off the Grid…
Well maybe that sounds about right. I've done Dry December and the Pillar in one pitch and both are about 150ft. Blue Zenith is shorter than both of those.
That ridge is pretty fun going up. I used to climb up through that big cave (the anchor for Blue Zenith) and free solo up to the top of the formation for the evening bird show. Seems like a bad idea these days. Mar 16, 2013
Seattle, WA
Rappel from the back.
With all due respect to the setters (I'm a beginner), it seems like the top scramble a little way past the 2nd-to-last bolt (after the "first top-out") adds nothing to the route, it would be nice to have bolted anchors after the 2nd-to-last bolt. Nov 9, 2014
San Francisco, CA
Sunnyvale, CA
Bellevue, WA
Top rope anchor is very doable, with the big hole in the arete and possibly the glue-in bolt nearby. Jan 14, 2021
Emeryville, CA
Off the Grid…