Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Space Wall

Alien Sex S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side Of The Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kwijibo S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Made in Japan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonshadow S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neanderthal Dudes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Purple Toupee S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sun Spots T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 338 total · 2/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

This route is essentially 5.9 A0 or .11+/12-. If you clip the first bolt and french-free through the starting bulge, you'll be rewarded with a nice, moderate slab. Or try to climb through the awkward and fairly difficult start, and probably be disappointed by how easy the rest of the route is. Your choice.

Protection

4-5 bolts and a green alien/blue TCU/.3 Camalot to anchors. Bolts are new as of 2009.

Location

Farthest right route at Space Wall, on the slab.

Photos

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
The 1/4 bolts are still there, and after soloing The Black Hole, I went up for a look see for anchors. I didn't see any. I did see some old webbing hanging around a large mazanita bush up top and a LONG way from the final bolt, though the top didn't look very difficult. So - if you want to set up a top rope, bring some sacrifical webbing and a 20'+ sling and climb the chimney to the left. Jun 5, 2006
426
426  
JMO---This route seemed pretty lame to me...not much opportunity for pro, either. Like Paul sez, the B1 start is ugg.

Barely even a candidate for 1/1 replacement. Do yourself a favor and do "Moonshadow" or any other route nearby. Mar 6, 2007
This climb now has 3/8" bolts (bring a green alien or equivalent for horizontal crack between 2nd and 3rd bolts) and a proper bolted anchor, the start however is still heinous Sep 10, 2009
Lurker
Truckee, CA
 
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
 
Just yard through the first bolt, otherwise makes for a mellow warm-up. Blue TCU works well for the horizontal. Mar 13, 2012

More About Sun Spots

Printer-Friendly