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Routes in Space Wall

Alien Sex S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side Of The Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kwijibo S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Made in Japan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonshadow S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neanderthal Dudes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Purple Toupee S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sun Spots T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 242 total, 2/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This route is essentially 5.9 A0 or .11+/12-. If you clip the first bolt and french-free through the starting bulge, you'll be rewarded with a nice, moderate slab. Or try to climb through the awkward and fairly difficult start, and probably be disappointed by how easy the rest of the route is. Your choice.

Protection

4-5 bolts and a green alien/blue TCU/.3 Camalot to anchors. Bolts are new as of 2009.

Location

Farthest right route at Space Wall, on the slab.

Photos

Lurker
Verdi, NV
 
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
 
Just yard through the first bolt, otherwise makes for a mellow warm-up. Blue TCU works well for the horizontal. Mar 13, 2012
This climb now has 3/8" bolts (bring a green alien or equivalent for horizontal crack between 2nd and 3rd bolts) and a proper bolted anchor, the start however is still heinous Sep 10, 2009
426
426  
JMO---This route seemed pretty lame to me...not much opportunity for pro, either. Like Paul sez, the B1 start is ugg.

Barely even a candidate for 1/1 replacement. Do yourself a favor and do "Moonshadow" or any other route nearby. Mar 6, 2007
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
The 1/4 bolts are still there, and after soloing The Black Hole, I went up for a look see for anchors. I didn't see any. I did see some old webbing hanging around a large mazanita bush up top and a LONG way from the final bolt, though the top didn't look very difficult. So - if you want to set up a top rope, bring some sacrifical webbing and a 20'+ sling and climb the chimney to the left. Jun 5, 2006