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Routes in Last Temptation Cliff

Charlie's Angel S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimps in Negligee T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death & Taxes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go I Know Not To Wither T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Live Monkey Brain S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lobotomy S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weather the Wither (AKA Fish Taco) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,269 total, 15/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is a great route with a surprise start. I thought it would be strictly a face route viewing from the approach path but there are several good hard moves inching up the crack to reach the second bolt. Once clipped to the second bolt, the route moves onto the face on small but secure holds. Clipping the third bolt is a bit nervy but not too bad. Up the face to the overhang where you will be glad to get in some trad gear. A fun, not so obvious move gets you on top of the block and then one more move lands you on top. All in all a great route, and for us, a great way to end the day!

Protection

4 bolts to upper overhang and then a couple mid size trad pieces (3/4" to 2") go in nicely to protect the move around the overhang. If you are 5.10" tall, you can just reach one of the top anchors to protect the last move to the top.

Photos

Mike Thielvoldt
Martinez, CA
 
Mike Thielvoldt   Martinez, CA
 
The 'biners at the top are showing serious wear with sharp edges. Dec 1, 2017
David R.
San Jose, CA
 
David R.   San Jose, CA
 
Great route, requires good footwork and a few long reaches. It gets sun all day, so it's a great place to climb in the winter. Jan 19, 2012
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Excellent route! Probably the best at the crag, and one of the best at the grade in CRSP. Apr 23, 2010