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Routes in Space Wall

Alien Sex S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side Of The Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kwijibo S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Made in Japan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonshadow S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neanderthal Dudes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Purple Toupee S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sun Spots T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Doug Mischler, 80's
Page Views: 533 total, 4/month
Shared By: John Ehrig on Sep 5, 2005 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

3rd climb from left on wall (2nd climb right of Kwijwabo). Great face climbing on good flakes and edges. Crux is technical with high pump factor cause it comes at the end of the route. IMHO, one of the best sport climbs at Donnor. In fact, the whole wall is excellent.

Protection

9 bolts, well protected. Crux between last bolt and anchor (chains). Can easily be top roped by topping out on Kwijwabo and moving rope.

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caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Hi John,

I climbed this about 8 weeks ago and the top anchors were there. They are however, over the lip. Kind of a bad spot IMO since your rope will run over the (not too rough) edge if you lower.

I recall them being set back 2 feet or so over the edge? And you do have to make some moves above that last bolt to get there. Seems very strange that they would be removed?

cheers,
dave Sep 15, 2010
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
We just climbed this yesterday and it appears that the top anchors are missing. I looked over the top of the climb and maybe 10 feet from the top of the climb on the slab above the climb I could see a single bolt but nothing else. Does anyone know what the status of the top anchors is? Sep 14, 2010
426
 
426  
 
Awesome route, the amazing quartz crystal holds should NOT be missed!!!

iirc, the FA was by Doug Mischler.

keep it together for the top. It ain't over til it's over! Mar 6, 2007