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Widow Maker

5.10a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 43 votes
FA: Todd Offenbacher, Jay Sell
California > Lake Tahoe > S Shore > Luther Spires > Widow Maker

Description

Widow Maker is claimed to be one of the best face climbs at Luther Spires and it certainly is a challenging and fun route! The climb is wonderfully well protected face climbing on solid rock. 

Protection

6 bolts to two bolt anchors with rappel rings. First bolt is quite a ways up there but small to medium trad gear could protect the traverse to the first bolt if necessary.

Location

This is one of the two furthest left and furthest up routes and there are two ways to approach it. Once you arrive at the Spires from the approach path, walk left. After only 30-40 feet the path either leads up along the spires or down to underneath all the spires. The only reason to go up is to get to other routes of interest or to check out the many other routes. This way is longer and MUCH harder than dropping down. Dropping down you follow a thin manzania path that goes left passing one set of Spires. Continue along until path veers up towards a beautiful free standing spire. This has several routes on it but Widow Maker is on the rock which sits above this. Follow path up and right around large boulders and up to large cliff. The beautiful line of Widow Maker is almost directly in front of you.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul passing first thin crux.
[Hide Photo] Paul passing first thin crux.
Brad getting through the delicate face moves midway up.
[Hide Photo] Brad getting through the delicate face moves midway up.
Paul clipping first bolt with others clearly visible above.
[Hide Photo] Paul clipping first bolt with others clearly visible above.
Widow Maker climbs the orangish rock at bottom right, traverses left and up the beautiful face to the top.
[Hide Photo] Widow Maker climbs the orangish rock at bottom right, traverses left and up the beautiful face to the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I would agree that this climb is definately one of the best at Luther Spires. It has some outstanding moves on it that are just fun to do. Also solid for its grade. Well worth the walk to get to (even if you take the difficult path). Aug 10, 2005
[Hide Comment] It's one of Jay Smith's un-reported routes. He climbed routes all over the area, but reported only some. Jul 10, 2008
[Hide Comment] FA of this route was made by Jay Sell. Jun 22, 2011
Nate Mallove
Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb. Thin, technical, and sustained for the grade, but well bolted. A must-do if you're looking to get away from the crowds in Tahoe! Feb 27, 2020
Andrew Kraft
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb. Bolts right where you need them and sustained at the grade. First bolt is way up there though. I scrambled around to the right onto the slab in front of it and got pretty close but used a stick clip just to be safe. Definitely a well bolted and safe climb but the first bolt is tricky. Jul 14, 2024