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Egg Arete

5.6, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 77 votes
FA: Jim Thornburg
California > San Francisco B… > Marin/Northwest… > Mickey's Beach > Egg

Description

This easy face climb starts on the east side of The Egg sharing the first bolt with Egg Face. After clipping the first bolt, traverse right and up a few moves to second bolt. A long runout from here to the top over easy ground could be intimidating for a beginner leader. A ground fall for sure if you fall just prior to clipping final anchor!

Protection

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor (shared with egg face). 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Egg Arete" on right, "Face on Egg" on left.
[Hide Photo] "Egg Arete" on right, "Face on Egg" on left.
Sallie celebrating after topping out. A great view from up here!
[Hide Photo] Sallie celebrating after topping out. A great view from up here!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric McCown
Oakland, CA
 
[Hide Comment] There are now three bolts to a solid two bolt anchor. Fun, easy climb. Good warm up or novice route. Nov 4, 2016
Ty Rack
Hood River, OR
[Hide Comment] Heads up right off the deck, long ways to fall before first clip, might be hard to stick clip Feb 22, 2018
Nick Andrew
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] This will feel way harder than 5.6 if you are not used to this type of climbing. And be careful not to fall in the hole before clipping the high first bolt! A spot or stick clip is definitely a good idea in my opinion. Aug 1, 2018
Gordon Yee
Brisbane, CA
[Hide Comment] What is the location of the 3 bolts before the 2 bolt anchor? I remember only 2 bolts. Jul 19, 2019
Undocked Piggies
People's Republic of West M…
 
[Hide Comment] A bolt was added to the start as of 8/28/2020 Aug 31, 2020
Jim Thornburg
Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] I bolted this route in 1987 with just two bolts at the time. That seemed like plenty at the time. Several years ago I added a third bolt and a few days ago Kim Pfabe added a fourth bolt at the start. Hopefully nobody is offended by the new bolts. Sep 6, 2020
Christina Taylor
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Loved it, satisfying arete, great views :] Sep 6, 2020
Jason Armstrong
SF, CA
 
[Hide Comment] @Jim, did the original line for this route stay on the arete the whole way?
update: confirmed the topos shown on this page are good May 9, 2022