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Sunnyside Up
5.11+,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 25
votes
FA: Kenny Ariza and Eppie Ordaz, 2000
California
> San Francisco B…
> Marin/Northwest…
> Mickey's Beach
> Egg
Description
Sunnyside Up lies on the west side of The Egg. Approach is down south side of The Egg and around corner to south west most face of rock. This climb is definitely tide dependent with the bottom 10' often wet. It is also this 10' that is crumbly and the crux even when dry. Hard, fingery, tiring moves get you finally to an in-balance stance at 3rd bolt. From here to the top is very sustained hard 10 face moves up interesting featured rock. A very fun route and worth doing even if you have to aid a little at the bottom!
[Hide Photo] Paul making the final delicate step up to reach anchors.
[Hide Photo] Great shot of Justin making progress...
[Hide Photo] Justin with a couple moves to go to reach the anchors.
[Hide Photo] Paul Rezucha belaying Justin as he continues upward on the thin face above.
[Hide Photo] Justin moving up thin face to small overhang above his head. Climb continues straight up slightly concave orange face above. (Not to right of little white corner/streak as I described in first ph…
[Hide Photo] Justin finally getting past crux to thin stance with 4th bolt just above his head.
[Hide Photo] Paul checking out the tide while Justin works the crux sections.
[Hide Photo] Photo shows Justin climbing past 3rd bolt. Climb continues up and right on the face just right of the little white right facing corner to the top.
[Hide Comment] Probably more like 5.11c, this route starts with a V3/4 boulder problem and then cruises up continuous moves on varied rock, some stellar some junky.....
Jul 14, 2011
[Hide Comment] 11b seems right after the first move but the first move is a half-pad crimp v4 pull. Unless you avoid it by traversing in from the left? I’ve heard some people doing it that way but I wasn’t able to figure out how to do it and it seemed contrived compared to going straight up. Either way, this route is amazing. Yes, it’s still pretty loose, but the setting is amazing and the upper slab is gorgeous.
May 1, 2016
[Hide Comment] A year after Julian's comment and hella stuff still broke off on my way up this route. Traversing in from the left for the start feels only a little contrived to me, and is a couple grades easier than going straight up.
[Hide Comment] WARNING: my friend took a fall from above the fourth bolt while i was belaying him, and the bolt broke off! The bolt looked extremely rusty. He took a big fall but we ended up being okay, because the third bolt caught him... but note that the other bolts may be just as rusty so the route probably needs to be rebolted.
Aug 16, 2020
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Chattanooga, TN
It could be anything tomorrow though. Bottom is loose. Still fun! Dec 28, 2015
Stanford, CA
Minus points for chossy slab. Aug 19, 2016
People's Republic of West M…