PRINT: Climb Bates Arete, San Francisco Bay Area

Bates Arete

V4, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 124 votes
FA: Barry Bates
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock & S… > Castle & Sanbo… > Castle Rock Loop > Bates Arete Boulder

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

The Bates Arete is one of the best problems of its grade in The Bay Area. Starting low on the right side of the rock, and about 25 feet long, first traversing up a steep overhang complete with large jugs and slopers leaving the desire for a good rest.

The climb turns the corner from a good traverse into an uphill battle along a long solid arete where landings are bad. A final mantle, and the problem is yours.

Protection

Several Pads, active spotters, and some heuvos. There are a few spots in the problem that just don't protect all that well.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting the Bates Arete problem on the backside of Castle Rock Proper

Night photo of BA

full arete feature

Nearing the top on this ultra Bay Area classic. Thx Wyatt for photo

Crankin.

Bates Arete

detail of the areté

The Bates Arete problem from below.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA

Barry Bates did the FA. Not "Billy" Bates (whoever that is). Sep 16, 2006

abe
califonia

wow. ! Nice line. Mar 9, 2008

tallmark515

Not sure that I'd call this "R" rated. It does top out high from the ground, but you're never too high from something to land on (other large boulders and slabs). The crux is down low and protects with two pads safely. Climbing up the face is easy after completing the crux and once you hit the jug at the top of the route you're home free. Oct 19, 2009

lucaskers
Mountain View, CA

I'm gonna echo other comments and say this is definitely not an "R" problem. I wouldn't even call this "PG-13". I've been known to be a weenie and did this by myself with two pads. Everything is easily workable and the crux protects very well. Once you pull onto the face you're basically home free. A rare jug top out for Castle Rock. Aug 10, 2015

Andrew Child
Corvallis, Or

The climbing on the face is really secure. If done right an uncontrolled fall would be very unlikely. There is some potential to barn door into a nasty fall while pulling on the arrete though. Overall I don't think this problem needs a PG13 rating. Oct 16, 2017

John Allard
San Francisco, CA

if you have 3 pads or so it's really not too dangerous, but then you risk a high dab factor. The line is super pretty and the hold are nice, it's a clean line. Feb 25, 2020

Scott Harris
San Francisco, CA

Night Video: youtu.be/V-LUrwQTA7E Nov 5, 2020

Reese Stanley

This is a super solid problem. I hated it the first time I did it but, I've come to love it over the past couple of months. I really like the movement and the arete is just so aesthetic. Great line! Dec 8, 2020

Sonia Rackelmann

Short girl beta: youtu.be/jRFKZcLSpUA Jul 30, 2022

Willy Wisconsin
Phoenix, AZ

Fun problem. A bit short. Didn't worry at all about the landing. Video with beta in the description: youtu.be/4mUiFa-kpo4 Nov 2, 2023

Daniel S
San Jose

mid climber beta: instagram.com/reel/C_UZHh5p… Sep 1, 2024