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Routes in Bates Arete Boulder

Bates Arete V4 6B
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Barry Bates
Page Views: 6,102 total · 38/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 1, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

The Bates Arete is one of the best problems of its grade in The Bay Area. Starting low on the right side of the rock, and about 25 feet long, first traversing up a steep overhang complete with large jugs and slopers leaving the desire for a good rest.

The climb turns the corner from a good traverse into an uphill battle along a long solid arete where landings are bad. A final mantle, and the problem is yours.

Protection

Several Pads, active spotters, and some heuvos. There are a few spots in the problem that just don't protect all that well.

Photos

Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
Barry Bates did the FA. Not "Billy" Bates (whoever that is). Sep 16, 2006
abe
califonia
abe   califonia
wow. ! Nice line. Mar 9, 2008
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Not sure that I'd call this "R" rated. It does top out high from the ground, but you're never too high from something to land on (other large boulders and slabs). The crux is down low and protects with two pads safely. Climbing up the face is easy after completing the crux and once you hit the jug at the top of the route you're home free. Oct 19, 2009
lucaskers
Mountain View, CA
  V4
lucaskers   Mountain View, CA
  V4
I'm gonna echo other comments and say this is definitely not an "R" problem. I wouldn't even call this "PG-13". I've been known to be a weenie and did this by myself with two pads. Everything is easily workable and the crux protects very well. Once you pull onto the face you're basically home free. A rare jug top out for Castle Rock. Aug 10, 2015
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
 
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
 
The climbing on the face is really secure. If done right an uncontrolled fall would be very unlikely. There is some potential to barn door into a nasty fall while pulling on the arrete though. Overall I don't think this problem needs a PG13 rating. Oct 16, 2017

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