Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,975 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 5, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Rust Never Sleeps is the left of two routes on the Gray Slab. Start by traversing left across slab above crashing waves until you reach the first bolt. Then continue moving up and left on quality slab moves to the second bolt and up to the top. Lots of fun but probably best for a confident 5.10 leader.

Protection

There are two bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, but no rap chains, so the last person to climb usualy walks off the right side of gray slab (5.3). You can also set up a top rope by soloing the arete first.

Falling before the first bolt would not be fun, and you have to traverse a long way on slab before you get to it (5.8).

Ropes often end up wet too.

Photos

Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
  5.10a R
Brad Allender   Alameda, CA
  5.10a R
I did this climb for the first time in a couple years and it really seems to have been battered by the sea. The holds seem to have disappeared and some of the face is getting a little crumbly. Still a great climb, but harder and scarier that I remembered it! Feb 6, 2006
There is bomber gear about 10 feet up on the way to the first bolt. A yellow and a red metolius mastercam (or equivalent) fit in a short diagonal crack. This climb is not crumbling. It's the same as it was 25 years ago. Jun 23, 2011
Jeni
Marblemount, WA
Jeni   Marblemount, WA
Heyo!

Is this route tide-dependent?


Cheers! Apr 14, 2017