Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,238 total · 7/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 5, 2005 with updates from ZachP
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Sharky's Machine is located on the west face of the Main Rock at Mickey's. As such, it can't be climbed if the tide and surf are high. It sits just to the right of the right-facing corner that is Hot Tuna and shares the top anchors. There are lots of sidepulls that provide technical and fancy climbing. Then once you're about 8 feet below the anchors, the holds run out. We scooted left and finished on Hot Tuna.

Protection

Climb Hot Tuna (11d/12a) and set up a top rope.
(2017 update!) Or just lead it - it now has three bolts to anchors that are shared with Hot Tuna.

Photos

Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
Very cool movement, wish it had bolts! Aug 11, 2014
Caliza Rodriguez
  5.12a
Caliza Rodriguez  
  5.12a
Really cool climb. I think this it's just as good as Hot Tuna and harder. Technical, sustained, power, and finesse to finish up on Hot Tuna. Aug 28, 2016
John Groh
  5.11+
John Groh  
  5.11+
Thanks to whoever added the 3 bolts on this route! Jul 1, 2017
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  5.11d
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  5.11d
Clipping the bolts is definitely the crux on this route, bad feet and a semi scary fall make it even harder. The fall is clean, but if you blew the clip you might hit your belayer. Overall I think this route would climb significantly easier on TR since you don't have to hold a stance at the top.

Felt like .11d to me Sep 10, 2017