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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,057 total · 7/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 5, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sharky's Machine is located on the west face of the Main Rock at Mickey's. As such, it can't be climbed if the tide and surf are high. It sits just to the right of the right-facing corner that is Hot Tuna and shares the top anchors. There are lots of sidepulls that provide technical and fancy climbing. Then once you're about 8 feet below the anchors, the holds run out. We scooted left and finished on Hot Tuna.

Protection

Climb Hot Tuna (11d/12a) and set up a top rope.
(2017 update!) Or just lead it - it now has three bolts to anchors that are shared with Hot Tuna.

Photos

Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  5.11d
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  5.11d
Clipping the bolts is definitely the crux on this route, bad feet and a semi scary fall make it even harder. The fall is clean, but if you blew the clip you might hit your belayer. Overall I think this route would climb significantly easier on TR since you don't have to hold a stance at the top.

Felt like .11d to me Sep 10, 2017
Thanks to whoever added the 3 bolts on this route! Jul 1, 2017
Caliza
  5.12a
Caliza  
  5.12a
Really cool climb. I think this it's just as good as Hot Tuna and harder. Technical, sustained, power, and finesse to finish up on Hot Tuna. Aug 28, 2016
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
Very cool movement, wish it had bolts! Aug 11, 2014

More About Sharky's Machine

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