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Routes in Mr Magoo Boulder

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Barry Bates
Page Views: 4,563 total · 23/month
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Oct 17, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Ascend the face to the left of Mr. Magoo on the Magoo Rock via two incredible small finger holds. The ascent can be made harder via an sit down start (sds) first down by Chris Scharma five years ago that is rated V10.

Protection

No pro. Boulder problem.

Photos

Ian G.
PDX, OR
Ian G.   PDX, OR
How hard is the "non-eliminate" Bates Problem? Going up and left to the jug instead of making the move up and right? Apr 25, 2009
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
.... sour grapes....
old school classic. non eliminate goes one move right to the angled crimp, then left hand to the lip arete.
hard. cool temps help. May 31, 2010
Kris S
Gunbarrel, CO
  V6
Kris S   Gunbarrel, CO
  V6
Mr Williams is mixed up. This description is correct: Eliminate goes right at one grade harder than the Bates Problem (non-eliminate) which goes left. Nov 26, 2017
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  V5
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  V5
I did a left hand gaston on the high start hold and it made this problem feel easy. Don't know if thats even allowed since this is an eliminate? If not this is probably the most contrived problem I've ever seen. Dec 28, 2017
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
  V7-8
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
  V7-8
Think the left-hand gaston off the high start is the "easy" variation of the Bates. You can bet every single possible variation on the Bates has been done at one time during the last 30 years. Dec 28, 2017
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  V5
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  V5
I thought that the "easy" variation started right hand high and went to the top jug up left. Jan 2, 2018
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
  V7-8
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
  V7-8
Easy way? Like in the 2nd picture. Jan 2, 2018
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  V5
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  V5
Yea. Neither way felt even close to V7 for me. Maybe if you did high right on the start holds then crossed with your left hand to the top right hold, but that sounds very contrived. Jan 3, 2018
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
  V7-8
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
  V7-8
Think the Scharma sit down start down and right is harder than V7. So many different ways to contrive this problem. Jan 4, 2018
Mike Deitchman
Boulder, CO
Mike Deitchman   Boulder, CO
The first pic (of Mike Hernandez) shows the correct beta for the Eliminate.

We used to call that Bates Eliminate, Bates Eliminate Left shared the same start but moved to the sloper up and slightly to the left. Jan 20, 2018

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