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Jane Spy

5.7, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 92 votes
FA: Todd Offenbacher
California > Lake Tahoe > S Shore > Luther Spires > Luther Spires - Main…

Description

Jane Spy is the closest route to the approach trail as it comes to the Luther Spires, sitting just left of the corner that the trail runs into. [Note, as of 9/23/2020, there is a more established trail that turns right after the bridge from the highway. Though less direct, it is far more established & leads to the same place ending at Jane Spy.]

The crux comes right as you leave the ground, and from there climbing eases to probably 5.5 through runout sections that will get you to the top anchors.

This is often a busy route, and is the best warmup on the rock.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor with mussies [2 bolts added 7/10/23 with FA permission]. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jane Spy
[Hide Photo] Jane Spy
Paul just past the first bolt.  It is a long way to the next one, but the climbing gets easier.
[Hide Photo] Paul just past the first bolt. It is a long way to the next one, but the climbing gets easier.
View from the Jane Spy belay station
[Hide Photo] View from the Jane Spy belay station

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
[Hide Comment] Really fun climb and a great lead to get a feel for the area. The bolts are fairl far apart, but the climbing is straightforward with bolts where you need them and in really good stances. Aug 8, 2005
Frank K
 
[Hide Comment] A good first outdoor climb. Fall consequences could be high at certain points in the climb, but a fall is very unlikely. Lots of feet and jugs. Aug 24, 2009
Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] You could probably throw in a small cam just before 2nd bolt and a larger cam between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Disagree with SuperTopo that this is a good beginning lead climb. The consequence of a fall in the wrong place is too high. I'd say Beer and a Hot Dog, Two Bucks makes a better beginner lead or Hey Y'all, Watch This. Apr 16, 2013
[Hide Comment] Agreed - I wouldn't put a new leader on this. It has good stances but is "heady", with potential for elvis leg. Sep 15, 2014
Simon Leigh
SF, CA
 
[Hide Comment] +1 this could be good for new leaders at the grade but would need at least two more bolts. As it is - it's only good for more experienced leaders to warm up on. Nov 4, 2019
Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista
  5.7
[Hide Comment] That's what makes this climb cool. I suggest headpointing instead of adding bolts. Nov 4, 2019