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Mixed Emotions

5.10a, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 47 votes
FA: Todd Offenbacher, 2002
California > Lake Tahoe > S Shore > Luther Spires > Luther Spires - Main…

Description

Mixed Emotions ascends the downhill (south) face of a pretty skinny spire about 150 left and uphill from where you first arrive at the crag. The climb is easily recognized by the crack system that gives way to bolts about 40 feet off the deck.

The crack goes at about 5.10a and there's also a distinct face crux up high, making Mixed Emotions a good mixture of 10a fun.

Protection

6 bolts, gear to 1.25", mussy hook anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting started on the thin feet section of the climb (the crack crux).
[Hide Photo] Getting started on the thin feet section of the climb (the crack crux).
At the anchors
[Hide Photo] At the anchors
Tim nearing the top of Mixed Emotions
[Hide Photo] Tim nearing the top of Mixed Emotions

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Frank K
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I'd say that this is a must do if you find yourself at Luther Spires. Lower crack takes great gear, Top bolted portion is fun and mellow, a nice summit as well. Aug 24, 2009
Aaron Hope
San Luis Obispo
 
[Hide Comment] Good route for a first time 10a trad leader (which was me!)There are convenient holds on the face (one of them is a total jug) so you can rest and place gear but not enough to avoid the crack. Bring several small cams in the 0.6 inch range (yellow C3 to grey C4) to really protect the crack well. Once the bolts start, it's a smooth climb. Aug 16, 2010
Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun climb with two distinct cruxes: the crack and where the face steepens at the third bolt. Great climbing in a great position! Apr 16, 2013
Nick Ruggero
Pacifica, CA
[Hide Comment] Is anyone concerned that the anchors of this route are on what looks like a detached block? It looked pretty precarious from one side, but if it hasn't moved in years.... Sep 21, 2020
Will WB
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Feels pretty full-on 10a at the crack if you want to avoid the face holds. I used #2 and #0.4 down low and then a Blue and Black Totem a little higher. Two Blue Totems/0.3 pieces would have been a little better. Didn't really notice any moves above that were as hard as the crack. Certainly worth getting on. Aug 26, 2022