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Routes in Luther Spires

Back Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beer and a Hotdog, Two Bucks S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Commercial Steak Sauce, Two Fifty S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dog and Grigri, Two Bucks S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Starter S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
HeyY'all, Watch This T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Jacko S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Spy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just Cause S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Do It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Jerry S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mixed Emotions T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Route T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plane Crash S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Priceless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
See Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab-B T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Undertaker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Virginia T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wacko TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Widow Maker S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Offenbachar, 2002
Page Views: 2,054 total, 13/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 14, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Mixed Emotions ascends the downhill (south) face of a pretty skinny spire about 150 left and uphill from where you first arrive at the crag. The climb is easily recognized by the crack system that gives way to bolts about 40 feet off the deck.

The crack goes at about 5.10a and there's also a distinct face crux up high, making Mixed Emotions a good mixture of 10a fun.

Protection

A low crack is traditionally protected before 6 bolts to a two bolt anchor up high.

Bring cams to 1.25 inches.

Photos

Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Fun climb with two distinct cruxes: the crack and where the face steepens at the third bolt. Great climbing in a great position! Apr 16, 2013
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
 
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
 
Good route for a first time 10a trad leader (which was me!)There are convenient holds on the face (one of them is a total jug) so you can rest and place gear but not enough to avoid the crack. Bring several small cams in the 0.6 inch range (yellow C3 to grey C4) to really protect the crack well. Once the bolts start, it's a smooth climb. Aug 16, 2010
Frank K
Bishop, CA
 
Frank K   Bishop, CA
 
I'd say that this is a must do if you find yourself at Luther Spires. Lower crack takes great gear, Top bolted portion is fun and mellow, a nice summit as well. Aug 24, 2009